Making a 2wd sled puller

Sled-pulling, Drag results, Dyno results

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Making a 2wd sled puller

Postby peytonmaterne » Thu Sep 11, 2008 6:24 am

I have an 89 one ton dually sitting at my fathers. I picked it up pretty cheap and have been trying to come up with ideas to have some fun with it. I thought about making it 4wd and have a frame lined up but I got to thinking it might be cool to have a 2wd puller. I would probably rebuild the 727 since it's what I have. Since there is no low range, what gearing would be needed in the rear axle 4.11, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13 ??? Weighing only about 5000 lbs I could take advantage of adding a lot weight over the rear wheels. What size tire on the rear, single or duallys? You have to admit it would be sweet to see a first gen carrying the left front down the track. Any ideas are appreciated. Any guys that used to run 2wd gassers on here that can give me some advice?
91.5, D250, getrag
91.5, D250, auto
84, D150 with 90 dodge/cummins drivetrain
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Postby Richie O » Thu Sep 11, 2008 5:54 pm

I think you will find that if you have enough traction then your weight will need to be up front. You got to get your hitch correct. What ever you do read the pulling rules where you are going to pull before you do any fab work. If you look at 2 wheel peel pullers the rear axle is way at back of truck and they still have weight up front and still are able to hook up enough to pull the wheels up. You want it to balence so the front just bairley tip toes down the track.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby MMiller » Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:40 pm

The street truck 2wd pullers around here run a 30" hitch, compaired to the 4x4 at 26". All of them add their extra weight in the box, sometimes behind the tires, sometimes ahead. Almost never to the front end. Block the rear solid, and get some bars on it. Get the truck setup so it just unloads the front suspension when its pulling, ever so slightly picking up the front tire. You have to remember when you sky the front end, you loose steering and are at the mercy of track conditions. Also when the front comes up a long ways, the hitch goes down and you loose traction anyway.

As far as gears, I don't know what the 2wd trucks use, but they are normally running a 33-35" mud tire that is 12-15" wide.

In SE Iowa there used to be a TON of 2wd pullers, stock wheel base trucks. Everything from stock to 700 hp BBC's. They have kinda slowed down, due to expenses of traveling around.

You're probably going to be doing exibition pulls, or the 4X4's will let you pull with them, until you start beating them, and that is quite possible if you get the setup right. I've seen 2 wheel drive chevy and dodge trucks smoke 4x4 street trucks.

Michael
1993 W250, 3.55, NV5600 , Con O, bosch 185's, 4" exhaust, Super 40, pump tweaks, ground pin, Smokehouse air intake, Hamilton Cam,
1985 D350, Crew Cab, 92 cummins and a 518. 47rh to be built and installed along with 3.55 LS Dana 80
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Postby Richie O » Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:10 pm

I guess I miss understood. I have never seen a "stock " 2 wheel peel class around here so I assumed he was going to be running in the mod class. Sounds fun,,, good luck.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby oldestof11 » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:24 pm

4.10's, 33" or 35" MT's (need the bite), traction bars, a good locker (dont need to do a 1 wheel wonder now do we?), a auto (you need as much gears as is possible. a manual wont cut it!), and as much weight over the ear axle as is possible.

Also a built lock up auto works best and some HP.

Jon
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93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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