by Sutter1stgen » Sun Jun 09, 2013 8:36 am
I'm at a dyno proven 350/716. I've done a few trips down the quarter mile with 10 psi boosted launches. I of course only run a 285 tire. But I do run a 3.07 gear, which in my opinion is like running a tall tire. My boss did a complete build. Turbo, injectors, 366gsk, lpplp, torque converter/ valve body. All through the hungry diesel. But it would be safe to say that his rig would be a 300hp setup. My truck with ddp3s, and small compounds, with the trans I have now, was a fun truck to drive everyday, made 330/660, and never went over 1000 degrees on the pyro. I felt comfortable towing with that truck.
But my end all, be all goal is 400 hp with a nonlockup auto, and we shall see if the trans combo I run now will hold. I built this trans on a tight budget. 720$ I believe. Converter was 500 through a vender.
Oh and I almost forgot. At 330 hp level, John Scheideck and I would heat soak our engines. He had a manual trans, I had a auto. I am a firm believer in the heat exchanger on the side of the block, accompanied by some big coolers. Both of our pyros were in the 1000 degree range, and it didn't matter. The engine itself would overtax the cooling system.
Jqmile ran into this very problem with his p pump truck towing. But having a 300+ hp goal is fine, just tow smart with it.
If you have to let out of the throttle to keep you power down, you are also giving your trans less line pressure through the tv cable input. This is where a valet switch comes in handy. You have way less power, so therefore you give more throttle input, which would give you more line pressure keeping your trans alive.
Eric
91'w250 with a new pump. This one doesn't chase itself around in a circle.