another 518 bites the dust

[9312v]

Well my auto finally bit the dust Tuesday last week. I had put around 11k on it sense I had purchased the truck in august. Well I had finally gotten around to pulling the trans tonight. I had previously taken the t case and all the misc stuff off and disconnected. Already have it lined up for a mild build and I emphasize mild. A 6spd was going to happen but this did instead.

so far I'm thinking either a specright tq or a tci one I cam get a discount through tci but haven't heard anything about there diesel converters.

shift kit

master rebuild kit along with better clutches

possibly a new pump because mine made a nasty noise before it died.

Input would be great I is the truck for towing and as a daily driver.



does this look like a stock converter?


I also noticed some scaring behind the flex plate

[cmann250]

so far I'm thinking either a specright tq or a tci one I cam get a discount through tci but haven't heard anything about there diesel converters.
shift kit
master rebuild kit along with better clutches
possibly a new pump because mine made a nasty noise before it died.
Input would be great I is the truck for towing and as a daily driver.
I also noticed some scaring behind the flex plate

Specright and Goerend seem to be the choice of many for converters. I have not heard much about TCI either. Other than that, you look to be on the right track assuming you don't plan to step up in power any time soon.
The general concensus is about 50/50 on using a deep pan. If you tow, I would consider it.
About the scraping on the adapter plate, both the adapter plates I have dealt with had it. I'm assuming it's no big deal unless the scraping is right where the converter bolts should be

[PToombs]

The scraping could be from the converter ballooning. When I got a converter for my 2nd gen the guy said that's part of why they have billet converters, the solid face stays put and the holes are in the face as opposed to small tabs welded to it.

[9312v]

its only scared in those two places. i am sending the tq out tomorrow, well i guess it would be today now to specright. so im hoping to have it back early next week.

[SNOOT]

Better look over that flex plate real close. Post another photo showing the entire flex plate. If its hitting there its cracked some place or from a previous bad flex plate.

[9312v]

Here's a complete shot

[9312v]

well go the torque converter in today. got a steel stator thats supposedly 92% efficient. was told that the trans should be done today also, but i guess i got shorted a friction and steel for the overdrive. and didnt find out till 730 so it was too late, i talked briefly with the guy who is rebuilding it and he said that the left over frictions in the over drive looked fine and that i could use it if i wanted. i did give the company a call that i ordered the rebuild it from and am hoping to hear back from them tomorrow. either way it should be done monday and im hoping to have it in tuesday afternoon. also got a derale deep pan for it.

i called around to some local dealers and one couldnt even find my truck on their "chart" another one said use atf +4 would it be worth it to use the good(name brand) fluid or can i get away with off the shelf stuff from a local parts store?

[PToombs]

I used ATF+4 from Carquest, no problems and 13k miles on it so far.

[ellis93]

I used ATF+4 from Carquest, no problems and 13k miles on it so far.

That's great stuff, the OReilly brand is good.

[9312v]

here's the pan

[9312v]

got the trans in today. took a whopping 18 quarts. at first we couldnt get it to shift at all. once we figured that out you would have to let off completly(throttle) and then get back on it to get it to shift through all gears. i belive that was due to a connector that wasnt connected all the way. now you just have to do that for 1-2 shift. also adjusted the tv cable but am going to fiddle with that some more. does any body know how the factory retains the rod linkage from the shifter its self? the one that goes from a plate on the trans to a mount on the frame. it looks to be around 1/2 dia. also i dont have any shift detents anymore. could that be internal or steering column related?

sorry for the real blunt post its late and i need to get up early.

[cmann250]

1-2-3 are all hydraulic, no electronics needed. Check your fluid level in neutral, not park. That shifter linkage rod should have plastic bushings on it that fit in the brackets on either side. The detents are in the transmission, not the linkage, so that's strange

[9312v]

played with the tv cable some more and still nothing, what am i doing wrong?
ive had it all the way forward(no gap)and all the way back( about half of the slide grove showing.
all the way back helped firm up the shifts but i still have the problem with first to second. also tried bypassing the cable and that was worthless. with the cable showing about half inch of slot it shifts pretty good but i lost OD? i have it wired to a potentiometer it worked last night and i havent played with it today but still no OD. checked the plug on the trans and its good.

what should i try next?
could the first to second be a valve body issue?

[Knoberman]

Nothing to do with shifting but I'd recommended Checking you're crank endplay. Mine was rubbing like yours because the thrust bearing came apart

[cmann250]

The 1-2 shift: I know it sounds stupid, but check, recheck, and check again the level of your fluid. Having to run up and let off in order to get it into the next gear sounds exactly like what I had to do when I was running low on fluid in my 47RH. Check it in neutral, not park. I wasted alot of time checking the fluid level in park and thinking I was ok.

O/D: Check the soleniod. Take it out, put 12v to it, and if it pops it's good. It's not uncommon after the trans fails for the solenioid to be full of metal and crap. The TV cable has no effect on O/D