I got a REAL tranny quirk now.

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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I got a REAL tranny quirk now.

Postby Begle1 » Thu Sep 20, 2007 4:35 pm

Now I KNOW I have a developing problem.

When I shift the tranny from 2nd to 3rd gear with the pedal in, the tranny lets the engine rev up a few hundred RPM before it goes into the next gear, at which point the torque convertor bites and drop the RPM down to where it should be.

So it's like the trans shifts into neutral for a split second before it goes into third gear. It's most noticeable at slow acceleration - if I go from 2nd to 3rd at 50 MPH and light throttle, my RPM will increase 200-300 RPM before it completes the shift.

So what's the problem? I need to finally install my manual valve body?

Think that my clutches are already fried to the point that I should replace them?

Is it a sign of anything else wearing out?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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14mm rotor
 
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Postby 2muchtq » Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:25 pm

Sounds to me like a flare then shift. Opposite the bind-shift problem.


You SHOULD make it go away with a band adjustment.
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Postby 2muchtq » Thu Sep 20, 2007 5:26 pm

A cracked front hub will also make it flare.
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Postby Philip » Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:57 pm

Have you adjusted the bands and did a full service??
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby txs » Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:39 am

Could be the band adjustment too loose,sounds more like the front clutch needs redone, the 2 most common causes are lip seals on the front clutch piston or the reaction shaft grooves and or seal rings that feed pressure to the front clutch. I'm assuming you haven't fooled with the throttle pressure adjustment(K/D).
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