47rh or 5spd

[Tsbourne09]

Y trans is slippin on hard pulls and in reverse on hills. Power is way down and mpgs suck.

47rh or 5 speed?
Which 5spd is best?
Whats required in 5spd conversions?

Found a 47rh out of 95 thats built. He went 5spd. But its 4x4. Is the tail housing all i will have to change on it to make it 2wd?

Any and all input will help. Got to make a decision soon... Thanks

[Tacoclaw]

It's more of a personal decision than anything. You can ask us, but you probably already know what you want.

In my eyes, if you enjoy driving your truck, get a stick. If you enjoy going fast and racing your truck, get an auto. However, if you have to ask, that means you're not dead set on a stick, and would probably just be better off with an auto.

[ellis93]

How is the 47 "built"? What kind of converter?
As far as making it work,that's fairly simple to make 2wheel peel. You'd use your tail housing and shaft,basically your o/d section. A trans shop could swap the clutches for you or you could do it if you have access to a press.

I'm with taco, want to raw hide it and go fast, get the auto.
I can row the gears in my truck fairly well but would never be fast enough against a comparable truck with a good auto.

[ellis93]

BC's write up. It shows how to tear down the o/d to get to the clutches.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... p?t=160276

[The_Head]

I would do a manual. I don't race. You won't lose as much power going thru a manual and you will get better fuel economy imo.

[JustinRhodes]

47rh has lock up so you really don't lose much more power than a 5 spd through it.

[Tsbourne09]

I dont know what i want!!! Ugh! This sucks. 47rh will cost more in the long run... And up front i know. But ill have more top end.... Manual ill have more power to the ground and less top end but more mpg right?

If i can go manual before i can get my hands on the 47rh thats built ill do that. What all is required in a 5ap conversion... Its simple right! Tranny flywheel clutch pedal assembly hole in the floor!??? What else

[Tacoclaw]

I don't know what the exact gearing of the two are, but if they have the same ratios then your top end will be the same in either. I think the top end of these trucks is limited by the drivers willingness to die in a crash more than anything. My truck will get over 100 in 4th, but it'll be a cold day in hell before I take it there. the acceleration of the auto will be faster, since it doesn't disengage from the engine to shift. The stick should get better mileage, though a lockup auto can be driven nearly the same way. I just think its a PITA to try to drive an auto around with the torque locked and banging gears like it does.

If your truck has an overdrive auto and you're wanting to swap to a Getrag, then no that's not everything. The OD section makes the auto longer so you'll need driveshaft work as well. If you're swapping in an NV, then you'll need an adapter plate and flywheel as well. I'm not sure on the dimensions of the NV, so I don't know about the DS work on it.

Since your truck is so modded, you're also looking at at least $500 for a new clutch. I got an NV-style setup, with flywheel, from Southbend and I believe it was in the $700 range.

You'll probably be down at least $2k with the auto, but that's just a number I've grabbed from my ass since I've never actually had one built. I'd bet on at least $500 for the converter, $1500 for a performance rebuild, and I think you're still going to need a 2ndgen adapter plate.

:Edit: To give you an example, I'm pretty sure I've got around $1700-$2k in my Getrag swap, once you consider the clutch, all the stuff to install it, the trans and transfer themselves, and stuff like new seals and u-joints(and a Getrag re-bearing I did myself), since I'm in there already.

[JustinRhodes]

With the 47rh you need the adapter plate and starter, I've heard that you can use the stock 1st gen linkage, but I didnt have it so mine is a mixture of 1st and 2nd gen linkage. With a 4wd you have to pop out the rear seal, and rtv where the trans/tcase bolt up and fill that with fluid aswell. As far as crossmember mounting, we simply just slid the crossmember back one hole.

[The_Head]

I don't know what the exact gearing of the two are, but if they have the same ratios then your top end will be the same in either. I think the top end of these trucks is limited by the drivers willingness to die in a crash more than anything.

This man speaks the truth.

[Tsbourne09]

Welp its parked now.... No overdrive now... And slippin... Fml. Drivin the 94.

[PToombs]

I think the top end of these trucks is limited by the drivers willingness to die in a crash more than anything. My truck will get over 100 in 4th, but it'll be a cold day in hell before I take it there.

This man speaks the truth.

I think you're both chicken shirts! I can only hit 90 in 4th, but over 100 it rides like a dream!

[ellis93]

My truck will not do a 100mph

Before the 366,84mph with the valves trimming my toe nails

[cmann250]

Before the 366,84mph with the valves trimming my toe nails

Wow, I can hit that without O/D. There's really no reason to go that fast though

I swapped transmissions and chose to stick with an auto because I didn't want to swap all the clutch hydros, etc. My $.02 is go 47RH if you want a street and strip pounder. Lock up is SWEET when running it hard on the pavement! I'd do a manual if this is your "work" truck and I have a feeling is isn't

[Tacoclaw]

I think the top end of these trucks is limited by the drivers willingness to die in a crash more than anything. My truck will get over 100 in 4th, but it'll be a cold day in hell before I take it there.

This man speaks the truth.

I think you're both chicken shirts! I can only hit 90 in 4th, but over 100 it rides like a dream!

Oh yeah, the ride starts clearing up at 70 and just gets better from there. I'm more concerned with the steering and braking capabilities at that point, not the ride.