Tranny binds going into 2nd from 1st

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Tranny binds going into 2nd from 1st

Postby Begle1 » Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:51 pm

I installed a manual valve body a couple weeks ago.
One week ago some retard decided to take it out of park without the key in the ignition...

Yesterday it decided that instead of shifting into 2nd, it'd bind the driveline and screech the tires before stopping power transmission and coasting to a stop.

It's kind of cool being able to limp home using nothing but 3rd gear with a 3.07 rear end...

So that's a sign of overtightened bands, right?

Considering that three weeks ago I had flare-up between shifts due to loose bands... I take it that's my a pretty good sign of dead bands?

How big of a job is a band change? Special tools?

Anybody know of a good step-by-step 727 rebuild book or guide somewhere?

What oher parts should I install at the same time?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby dpuckett » Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:59 pm

My first guess would be the FSM for tranny rebuild. There are a few guys out there (names escape me- surprise, surprise) who have written books on 727 performance rebuilding, tailored more toward gassers, but I'm sure could be adapted to diesel use.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby hdm48 » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:01 pm

Go to just about any speed shop and you will find a book on rebuilding the tranny. The 727 is the easiest tranny to rebuild and you can do it yourself.
Before you start, read the book and make a note of some special tools you will need. These tools will include an inch pound torque wrench and a special spring compressor for the clutch pack pressure plates (one in each clutch pack-there are two). a slide hammer will remove any hostile tendencies you may experience when trying to remove the front pump cover.
Lots of patience, a very clean work area, a very clean work area, and a very clean work area.
If, for some reason you cannot find a book, try amazon, they have them. And if, for some reason they don't have one, let me know and I can loan you one.

Dave
Former 1st gen owner with lots knowledge to share. dynoed at 334rwhp. Now an owner of a 98 12v 1 ton 4x4, 5sp with lots of goodies.
My son has 2 1st gens and my old one is owned by a good friend so I can still give it a hug frm time to time.
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:01 am

Thank you very much.

I have an early Christmas present from Suncoast on the way, though. Didn't really have the time to tear it down, and now I get a warranty and overdrive.


Does anybody have a Diesel-spec A518 4-speed that I can use as a core? The core charge is $800, and my 3-speed is only good for $400... So it's advantageous if I pay up to that difference.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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