Rear axle swapability thread.

[Horus]

As I was returning home from the wilderness this weekend I suffered a catastrophic failure of the passenger rear wheel bearing. This failure was so absolute it caused the wheel along with the axle shaft to separate themselves from the housing as I was merging onto the freeway. I have not looked at it close yet but it would seem a given that the spindle on that side is likely shot. In the likely event it is I shall have to replace the housing.

There is a bunch of information out there regarding what will fit in our trucks. Some say a 2nd gen Dana 70 or 80 is a direct bolt-in. I've read that the shock mounts may be different as well as the spring pad width and/or spacing. So I thought I'd put it past the most knowledgeable 1st gen Dodge people I know.

What options are available for rear axles compatible with our trucks? Will a 2nd gen axle just bolt in? Has anyone put a different rear axle in and can speak from experience? Thanks in advance. As I find solid information I'll post it here.

[simplysmn]

Have a dana 70 srw rearend with 410 and LS if your interested located in So Cal

[Mark Nixon]

Do you realize how involved this is probably going to get?
No, a 2nd gen axle is NOT a direct bolt in, much less a "simple" one, per-se.

Some 3/4 ton 2nd gen D-70s will "fit", but the track widths of the axle assemblies are @ 3" overall wider. This is across the board on ALL 3/4 tons.
There are 2 separate Dana 70s for 3/4 tons, just in reference to spring pad width, not to mention the height difference of the pads between 4wd and 2wd.
There is the diesel version with the wide spring pad, which uses a 3" spring width and gasser V-8, which uses a 2-1/2" spring width.
The V-10 3/4 rear axles share the diesel specs.

Opening more worms, figure the 1994-only shock mount locations, then add in the brake cables, lines and E-brake scenarios, then stuff gets really ridiculous.

The Dana 80 uses a larger diameter tube, couple that with the fact that the tube is 4" instead of 3-1/2, plus you have to either shim the sides of the springs, or narrow the spring pads down to get u-bolts to work, that makes it a tougher install.
Then there is making a shock mount that's simple and works properly, though Pulltilbroke & Papa P.T.B. had a nice solution on those.

I could write a book on the differences and theories on what will work, but IMO it's better to just buy the correct one and be done.

[bmoeller]

I've got a D70 axle from a 93 W250. 3.54 gears. Think is has limited slip as well. Haven't taken the cover off, but I do know it needs a pinion seal.

[Horus]

Thank you for your post Mark. This was one of those topics I just couldn't find good info on. I'd find threads in other forums asking this same question and read them. Either the answer was "search noob!" or " Yeah, it all bolts in. I think the e-brake stuff is different and maybe the shock mounts. Nothing too serious. Should be easy."

A couple posters say they simply never hooked up the e-brake! I need my e-brake. When my axle shaft and wheel fell out I would have had to roll into the ditch to keep the truck from rolling down the hill had I not had the brake holding the other wheel.

I found an axle out of a 92 with my gears and an open carrier for $200. My D250 is back on the road. Thanks guys.