Synchro Question!

[Mark Nixon]

...May need an input for 5600 as well. Nose is worn where the bearing was...

Have the flywheel bored for a sealed bearing and the damage will likely no longer matter.

Mark.

[bmoeller]

I can have that done, when I get the flywheel touched up. It's not horrible, but I can catch my nail on it.

[PToombs]

I think I found my rattle noise. Last time I reset the shims on the countershaft I noticed it seemed to move but nothing on the dial indicator. Today as I was assembling it I realized why, the gear cluster is loose on the shaft and will slide back and forth about 1/8 inch! So that job is on hold until I can get a shaft and snap rings. Figures.

[bmoeller]

That sucks Pete!

[PToombs]

Yeah, kinda what I was thinking as I was cussing!

[PToombs]

Has anybody else had the countershaft cluster be loose on the pin? I've been thinking about it and am not sure if the cluster is supposed to be a friction fit on the pin, or are the bearings supposed to hold it when you tighten them down with the rear cover? I can't remember how it was when I pulled it apart the 1st time, and I've done it so many times now I'm not sure how it's supposed to be. I was talking with the guys at work and they don't think the bearings should hold it because they would have to have a lot of load to pinch it.
Let's hear it!

[Mark Nixon]

There is a notable interference fit, but it's not a "press" fit.
Shouldn't be sloppy in the least.

Mark.

[PToombs]

Mark, once I tap it into position, (without bearings) I can slide it in and out by hand.
Ok, I figured it out, sorta kinda. I did some measuring tonight and the bearings should rest against the cluster. I think my pin was swelled from driving it in and out so much that the bearings were stuck too hard on the shaft. So when I shimmed it, the bearing wasn't moving back to the cluster, letting it float back and forth on the pin. I hope the cluster isn't too loose on the new old pin I'm getting.
Well, I'll find out!