I lost 2nd and PARK???

[turboram]

The numbers are the lever ratio the number means 3.8-1 or 4.2-1
I have only ever had one broken and that had a goerend vb all of the ones I have built are still running and are much less harsh between shifts .....don't use the anything higher than 3.8 lever with a flexible band

[Sutter1stgen]

A higher ratio won't mean the actual arm is going to be stronger. It just means the arm is going to have more leverage to apply more pressure. Making the band clamp tighter. If you haven't slipped the band, and a 3.8 got you by this far, you probably won't need a higher apply ration lever. Throw it in there and wait till the weakest link shows afterwards.

[Begle1]

So does a higher ratio just make the shifts more violent, or does it actually make the transmission stronger?


I figured the Goerend's one or other aftermarket ones would be harder to break because they'd be heavier or billet... Is that not the case?

Is this a common thing to just bust out of the blue after three years, or does it mean I have another problem somewhere?

I got the transmission out and the valve body removed.



Do I need a new band? Is there supposed to be more friction material than this? Should I replace it anyways?



Does anybody have any idea where this little ball bearing fell out of? I imagine it dropped out of the valve body somewhere, and that concerns me.





Thanks to all you guys. I owe Eric big time.

[BC847]

does anybody have any idea where this little ball bearing fell out of? I imagine it dropped out of the valve body somewhere, and that concerns me.

That looks like the ball of the shifter' s "Rooster Comb". It, working with a spring, provides the detent function of the shifter.

[Sutter1stgen]

It looks to be you detent ball for the rooster comb like bc said above. Now the who broken lever thing, Ive never heard of it happening, and it's never happend to me. Now that doesn't mean it's not possible, and I'm sure in flat out competition builds, they may brake and they may upgrade to billet apply levers. I was told that the check balls in your valve body are of a different material and size. So it probably won't stay put for long, and would wear through over time if it did. Have a blanket wall and magnetic tray setup next to the valvebody when you go to install the spring and detent ball. I lost one across my shop during my rebuild and it is what stopped me from finishing for a weekend.

[ellis93]

Your band is fine,thats as thick as it ever was.
On your ball and spring...the tfod shift kits have a pin in them that has a point on one end and a dish machined in the other. It allows you to be able to install the spring and ball with this pin holding them inside their bore. while the pin is there,you insert the r/c shaft in to its boss and shove down,this pushes the pin down and away. I can post up a pic of it, but not till Monday.