I lost 2nd and PARK???

[Begle1]

I took my truck out today to get a bed. Took it out of park in the garage fine, idled to the end of the street, couldn't go into second. It's a Suncoast non-lock-up A518 with a forward-pattern manual valve body and a B&M ratchet shifter. When I upshifted into second it stayed in first. It went into third all right. When I downshifted back to second, it stayed in third.

I went back to my driveway, and it wouldn't go into park. I took off my shift linkage; by hand on the transmission lever, I couldn't get it to go into park either. It physically won't go into park. It'll physically go into the second position and just stay in the last gear, but it won't go into park at all.


So I threw a pair of wheel chocks in the back and went to pick up the bed. The bed was the cheapest thing ever, so they knocked the price down from $100 to $60. Then on the way back home I stopped at the really-expensive-deli and used the $40 to buy a 1-pounder brisket sandwich, bowl of turkey noodle soup, cup of pesto pasta, cookie and fruit smoothie, because I have a colonoscopy on Monday and so am not allowed to eat anything tomorrow.


ANYWAYS, anybody have any idea what could go wrong that'd make it so I can't shift into park or go into second?

This week sucked.

[Philip]

Second gear band strut fell out and jammed the linkage.

[Begle1]

Can I fix it?

[ellis93]

Only way those fall out is if the band is severely worn/out of adjustment. You can drop the v/b and snake it back in.....if the band is ok that is.

[Begle1]

I talked to Ernie at SunCoast, he said to drop the pan and send him a picture of what was laying in the bottom of it.

Apparently I broke the widget and then the hootenanner fell out.


What's it going to take to fix?

[oldestof11]

Drop the VB, add new apply lever.

[Sutter1stgen]

To remove the apply lever I believe you have to drop the trans. Inside the bell housing there is a hex or 3/8" headed drive fastener. I'm not sure which one you have, I've seen both. But it is right inline with where the apply lever pivots. Well pull that out slowly, it is the shaft that the apply lever pivots on. Place the new apply lever in place, slide the shaft back in, and tighten the end in the bellhousing. I've only done this on a bench a few times never in a vehicle. Good luck, if you were closer to sacremento area id help you in a jiff.

[Begle1]

So this is rather normal then?

I can drop the transmission in an hour, but once I go inside of it I'm in the great unknown.


What should I replace it with? Super mega billet apply lever?

What's that other straight flat piece?

[Sutter1stgen]

There is the apply lever, which broke at the hinge point in your case. The about 3-4" long piece is the strut, which can be updated with a stronger piece. Then there is a small wedge shaped piece, and it's called the anchor. I have a DVD I ordered online last year. It's 90' dated if you kick it old school. I'd be more then happy to lend it to you, I'd mail it. As long as you promise to send it back. I'm a visual learner, so it was really helpful to see what everyone was talking about. It's for a 727 but the same basic principle is applied.

[BC847]

As said above, you'll need to remove the VB so as to get to that servo and its associated linkage in the top/left of this image.





When it's put together right, it looks like this (starting with the lever at the top) . . .





You'll need to drop the trans, and pull out the converter so as to access that threaded-plug shown in the bottom/left of the case (1/4" drive socket extension works for me) . . .





Removing that plug will allow you to slide the lever's pivot-pin out to replace the lever . . .











You can get aftermarket levers that basically alter the fulcrum of the lever (so as to increase it's mechanical advantage). I can't recall the ratios available over stock . . . . 3.5 and 4.1 . . . ? I run the 3.5 as I was informed the 5.1 might be a little much with my build.

[Sutter1stgen]

Thanks bc for the photos and correct terminology.

[Sutter1stgen]

Well, are you a master tech on the 727 transmission now???? After seeing you capabilities with electronics you should have no problem with your parts replacement.

[Begle1]

I haven't pulled the transmission out yet. I'm thinking maybe tomorrow.

I don't know if I want to put in the stock lever you gave me or go to a "better" one?

[Sutter1stgen]

Don't run the 5.1. Get the 4.2 that Goerend or suncoast sells.

[Begle1]

I still don't understand what a lower number or higher number does. What benefit would the 4.2 be? (Other than just not breaking again as easy?)


I got the transmission out of the truck now, and it sure looks like it'd be easy to pop that stock 3.8 in that you gave me... If it was good enough for SunCoast, it's got to be good enough for me, right?