Transmission adjustment advice plus a little venting :-)

[IrishChamp]

I had my a518 rebuilt a couple years ago with a transgo-diesel shift kit, spec rite steel stator converter, extra clutch packs, front and OD 5 pinion planets with a 2nd gen intermediate shaft and possibly a few more little things I don't remember. It was a huge improvement over stock with just the VE turned up and a 3200 spring but it still doesn't shift the way I feel it should. My builder seemed competent but I just don't think he put the care he should have into the details like shifting adjustments, he also didn't replace my rear band because he couldn't get one for some reason when he needed it, and I'm sure there were other little things he neglected to mention as well. I just hope he didn't miss anything serious.
Transmission has seemed solid for the last 2 years sense rebuild, about 10k miles total. Btw, Truck & Trans only had approx 85k miles on it when rebuild was done

I'd give one of my limbs to find an individual close to me that is competent, has some experience and charges fair rates who could give my transmission a once over, make sure everything is as it should be and fine tune it but I've not found a shop anywhere that seems to have a clue. In fact, when I did my rebuild I decided on my trans builder largely based on the fact he was the only one who knew that pre 94 trucks had the non lockup transmission and didn't argue vehemently that my truck had a 46rh with a lockup converter.Eeven the most well known and the largest shops in town were convinced it was a lock up converter 47rh transmission AND they wanted over 4k for a basic "hd" rebuild.
Anyway, I'd like to get my transmission shifting better now as I'm getting anxious to mount up my he351ve turbo this summer along with some head studs, a new head gasket, some injectors, 60lb springs and an overdue valve adjustment. Btw, i called one of the more well known diesel performance shop today and they wanted almost 3k for a valve adjustment, 60lb valve springs, head studs and a head gasket, $400 for JUST a valve adjustment. The guy I spoke with also said he rebuilt ve pumps for years before working at this shop and told me I couldn't make over 200hp without a 13mm pump, and an hx35 turbo, lol. He also said a whole bunch about 3psi from the lp being all the ve would ever need, bla, bla, bla. It went on and on, I blocked a lot of it out.
I'm still mad and its been 12 hours. I need to stay on track though.

I did find this: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7759
It seems doable but I don't know what applies and what would be different with the TFOD-Diesel kit and other upgrades. I really feel I need an expert.

Thanks in advance!

[cmann250]

I played around with those two screws and it made a noticeable difference. It sounds like your transmission had all the right parts thrown at it, just no tuning. Between adjusting those two screws and the TV cable, everything should come into line.

What exactly is your transmission doing? Weak shift, late shift, or what? To my understanding, turning the front screw CCW increases pressure across the board, allowing less clutch slippage and slightly firmer shifts. I didn't feels less slippage because I have a stock converter, but the shifts felt firmer. In my experience, turning the second screw CW helps early shifts.

[IrishChamp]

I'm going to take it for a drive and pay close attention to its shifting characteristics then I'll report back.
Thanks for chiming in.

I played around with those two screws and it made a noticeable difference. It sounds like your transmission had all the right parts thrown at it, just no tuning. Between adjusting those two screws and the TV cable, everything should come into line.

What exactly is your transmission doing? Weak shift, late shift, or what? To my understanding, turning the front screw CCW increases pressure across the board, allowing less clutch slippage and slightly firmer shifts. I didn't feels less slippage because I have a stock converter, but the shifts felt firmer. In my experience, turning the second screw CW helps late shifts.

[cmann250]

I edited my previous post. The second screw makes shifts later. It helps the early shifts. That was backwards in my mind.

[IrishChamp]

Ok, hopefully this sums it all up.
1- 2 shift is soft but not sloppy at part throttle, same at full throttle
2- 3 shift is very hard at part throttle just drops into the next gear, it can be pretty clunky especially if I let off the pedal after accelerating. It's the same as all the other shifts at full throttle.
3-od is soft but not sloppy at part throttle, same at full throttle.
Shift points are higher than stock.
At light throttle Shifts first to second around 17 to 22 miles an hour. Full throttle shift 25 or 26. Third gear at light throttle right around 30 or 32, full throttle shift 40. Full throttle od shift 60-65. Part throttle od shift 35, pretty quickly after 2-3.
Another thing I wish it would really do is when manually downshifting into first gear it waits till about 20 or 23 miles an hour to downshift, drives me crazy, truck feels like its costing for a couple seconds before it will down shift. I wish it would down shift earlier to slow me down. All other gears when manually downshifted decelerate grabbing engine revs nicely.
Shift points all seem just a tad above the optimum torque curve but I'm not really sure.
Lastly, sometimes it's difficult to get out of park.

[Sutter1stgen]

Where are you located?? I did all the work myself and have pretty much the same setup. My 1-2 shifts are flawless, but my 2-3 has a flare for a fraction of a second. I installed a 5:1 apply lever and was later told it would cause goofy 2-3 shifts. If I let off for the 2-3 shift as it getting ready to shift at low speed it will do just as you described. My O/D shift is soft yet quick, especially under full power. I've learned to drive around the goofy low speed 2-3 shift. When I pulled the pan the other day there was a normal amount material in the pan. So I adjusted my bands, installed a new filter and went on my way. When I have to rebuild this thing again I may pay someone else to do it. I want firm, Crisp shifts from here on out.

[IrishChamp]

I'm located in Reno NV, I grew up in northern ca though. It'd be great to compare how the two trucks drive with a similar setup. Where exactly are you located?
I told my builder to use a 4.2 apply lever I think, he may have used a 5:1 though from the sound of it.

Where are you located?? I did all the work myself and have pretty much the same setup. My 1-2 shifts are flawless, but my 2-3 has a flare for a fraction of a second. I installed a 5:1 apply lever and was later told it would cause goofy 2-3 shifts. If I let off for the 2-3 shift as it getting ready to shift at low speed it will do just as you described. My O/D shift is soft yet quick, especially under full power. I've learned to drive around the goofy low speed 2-3 shift. When I pulled the pan the other day there was a normal amount material in the pan. So I adjusted my bands, installed a new filter and went on my way. When I have to rebuild this thing again I may pay someone else to do it. I want firm, Crisp shifts from here on out.

[Sutter1stgen]

I'm in Sutter California. Grew up in yuba city, about a hour north of Sacramento. I wondered if you were close for the fact you run a Specrite. I'd be more than happy to meet up with you to compare. Apparently the 5:1 is too much for the diesel app. Gazette love them though. I was really worried when i first started driving the truck after the rebuild. I though I had a shift overlap in the 2-3. That will burn something up in short order. Only thing that I can think of is that the 5:1 requires more movement to clamp, yet has more clamping power. So more leverage requires more time to operate. So that would mean it would take longer to release the second gear band. So when the 2-3 shift happens it doesn't release in time. It's been a while since I had the manual open. And this is the best possible explanation I can give. But with the somewhat clean pan, hard use, I didn't see much too worry about. Except for a slower shift, and a slower ET.

[IrishChamp]

I'll be going back and forth through CA over the next couple months maybe I can swing by your area.
I wish I knew for sure what lever was installed in mine, I hate not being directly involved in things done to my vehicles
Im not sure i completely understand the relationship between what your describing and what i feel in my shifting. My 2-3 shift is firm and fast at part throttle, it's the fastest part throttle shift, just a little overly hard compared to the others. If they were all rock hard I'm sure I'd be happy, I just don't like not knowing why it's the way it is and the fact its not the same as all the others and at part vs full throttle. At full throttle it's almost identical to the other shifts, MAYBE, a little firmer and faster, but basically indistinguishable from the others.

I'm in Sutter California. Grew up in yuba city, about a hour north of Sacramento. I wondered if you were close for the fact you run a Specrite. I'd be more than happy to meet up with you to compare. Apparently the 5:1 is too much for the diesel app. Gazette love them though. I was really worried when i first started driving the truck after the rebuild. I though I had a shift overlap in the 2-3. That will burn something up in short order. Only thing that I can think of is that the 5:1 requires more movement to clamp, yet has more clamping power. So more leverage requires more time to operate. So that would mean it would take longer to release the second gear band. So when the 2-3 shift happens it doesn't release in time. It's been a while since I had the manual open. And this is the best possible explanation I can give. But with the somewhat clean pan, hard use, I didn't see much too worry about. Except for a slower shift, and a slower ET.

[Sutter1stgen]

Not a problem. Pm me when your coming through.

[txs]

The 5.0 lever has a different back off (tighter spec) on the kd band adjustment, if its adjusted to 3.8 spec it might cause 2-3 rpm flare up.

[Sutter1stgen]

^^^ I had it adjust to the spec it required. Caused it to Overlap more. When I back it off to 2.5 turns it seemed to cure it. Except now it flares. I got on some mopar gasser forums an they said they had the same problem with the lever. The sure cure for it was to install all of you springs in the direct drum. Not sure
I that's right term.

Reguardless I'm ready for a sure cure.

[IrishChamp]

some of this is, sadly, over my head or at least out of my realm of experience, I've never experienced overlap or shift flare........