nv4500 swap

[tradtke]

Alright so I have a Buddy who also drives a first gen and over the weekend his tranny went to sh**. Now he's think about doing the nv4500 swap. And I'm gonna be the brains of the operation lol. He drives a 1989 dodge Cummins. Single cab long bed. 5 speed 4wd. Hes planning on going the route of the adapter bell housing the be able to match the transmission to the first gen adapter plate. What I'm wondering is what all else will he need to do this swap? Will he Ned different length driveshafts or anything at all that needs to be done. Thanks ahead of time.

[Black93]

If he's gonna use the advance adapters bellhousing kit, then it's a pretty straightforward swap. Pay close attention to the pivot ball and clutch fork, you can probably plan on replacing both. Don't use the trans mount block that comes with the kit, use it as a template and make one out of 1/4" square tube. You'll have to move the crossmember back a little, I cheated and just drilled two new large holes for the trans mounts to sit in, but you'll have to enlarge the slots on the bottom of the crossmember if you go that route. As for the driveshaft, that's a toss up, I didn't have to lengthen mine.

[BobS]

I used the AA kit as received and everything bolted up just as designed. The NP205 shifter bracket needed longer studs. The so called "weak square tubing" mount is still just fine after nearly 50,000 miles of service. Both front and rear driveshafts fit perfectly. My clutch fork and ball stud is still the original. I'd imagine if you have over 200,000 miles you might see some wear. Good luck in finding an economical replacement should you require one. The "cheap silicone bronze pilot bushing" provided by AA was soaked over night in cheap motor oil as instructed and is still functioning just fine.

The only partial failure I experienced was the cadmium plated bolts that mount the cheap square tubing to the transmission have had a tendency to either exit or back out. Cleaning the threads on both contact points with alcohol and letting it dry followed by applying some Permatex blue silicone gasket sealer seems to have eliminated that problem. It also prevents electrolysis between the two different metals which can later cause a bolt seizure the next time you need to remove them. I also now use this same method when mounting the bellhousing to the engine adapter. It seems to work better than the standard aeronautical method of using 30WT motor oil on steel thread that are secured in aluminum. Corrosion fails to develop when air and water can not get trapped in the threads of dissimilar metals.

[Black93]

The so called "weak square tubing" mount is still just fine after nearly 50,000 miles of service.

After about 10k miles mine was cracked all the way across the top. I'm just glad I caught it when I did. It would've sucked to be sitting on the side of the road because of a sheetmetal trans mount.

My clutch fork looked fine also, so I reused it. After about 7-8k the clutch started acting a little funny from time to time. I checked everything, but ended up pulling the trans back out and the fork had split over the pivot ball. I was lucky enough to find a new one from an online Dodge dealer for $70.

[762frmafr]

This swap would be something that I would definitely want to do if/when I get a 1st gen truck. If someone is starting with an auto truck, would it be easier to have a manual transmission complete donor truck?

[PToombs]

Yup! It's the best way to go. You get all the linkage, crossmember, shafts and such that you need. Then if you feel real lucky you can relist the (now) 2wd truck and try to get some money back out of it. Or part it out, saving the best stuff for yourself of course!

[762frmafr]

Great. Now I have to search for 2 trucks.

[762frmafr]

What if a person wanted to stay with an auto transmission? Are there any swaps that people are doing that are better/stronger than the 1st gen auto?

[CumminsPower59]

Some guys are going to 47RH's, they are found in 94/95 trucks. They are pretty similar to the A518, except they have a lock-up torque converter. The A518's and 727's that come in these trucks can be built up, BC847 has a built A518 that is pretty tough. Just depends on what you want

[92cummins89]

I'm lookin at doin this same swap this weekend with the aa adapter on the manual it says u have to mill around 1/2 off the input shaft and was wondering does this have to b done if so y and will it affect wat I'm doin ifi don't thanks guys