Build it or replace it?

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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby CumminsPower59 » Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:10 pm

Were they the ones that looked kinda directional? If so, they are the MT's...but the combo of the steel two piece wheel, the rubber runflat/internal bead lock, and tire, they are friggin heavy. The newer stuff (BFG's and the newer MT/R's) have such a soft rubber compound, we couldn't get 3500 out of a set...although they were in M1165 Humvee's overloaded to the max!
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 4:58 am

Must have been the mt's then.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby flyin6 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:16 am

CumminsPower59 wrote:Were they the ones that looked kinda directional? If so, they are the MT's...but the combo of the steel two piece wheel, the rubber runflat/internal bead lock, and tire, they are friggin heavy. The newer stuff (BFG's and the newer MT/R's) have such a soft rubber compound, we couldn't get 3500 out of a set...although they were in M1165 Humvee's overloaded to the max!

I saw the ODA guys use the super swampers and the Cooper's...SST's I think??
Those guys build whatever they want.
I was a part of all that once upon a time and we even built our helicopters that way, just bolting on stuff and seeing if we could get it to work...
For now I'm not going to go to the mil spec tires. If I did I was thinking I'd use the whole package, double bead lock and run flat inserts.
But not for now

I just got that Sterling rear axle in yesterday. I discovered we need to shorten the drive shaft about an inch or so to get it to work, and to use an adapter U-joint that has the 1410 on one side and the 1350 Spicer joint/caps on the other. Seems the Fords used smaller U-joints.
But that Sterling gives much better ground clearance than the pointy D70...
1991.5 RCLB 7" lift, 1" body lift, P-pump motor, cut delivery valves, 4K spring, ARP, 3.54, Sterling axle Lock Rite, 6" skyjacker 37" MTR's recentered HMMV wheels. Traction bar, boxed in frame, Hydro assist brakes, dual batteries, elec air pump, lift pump, extra filter, 3-piece manifold, Diamond 4", 4" driveshaft, X-over steering, isspro tach, EGT, boost, and more...
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:51 am

I run that conversion joint. The first one died in short order but this one is doing okay I guess.
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby flyin6 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:08 am

dazedandconfused wrote:I run that conversion joint. The first one died in short order but this one is doing okay I guess.

We'll know soon enough if this one works

Hey, I need some help lifting the bed off the truck... :D
1991.5 RCLB 7" lift, 1" body lift, P-pump motor, cut delivery valves, 4K spring, ARP, 3.54, Sterling axle Lock Rite, 6" skyjacker 37" MTR's recentered HMMV wheels. Traction bar, boxed in frame, Hydro assist brakes, dual batteries, elec air pump, lift pump, extra filter, 3-piece manifold, Diamond 4", 4" driveshaft, X-over steering, isspro tach, EGT, boost, and more...
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby CumminsPower59 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:39 am

flyin6 wrote:But that Sterling gives much better ground clearance than the pointy D70...


You can always do what the 'crawler guys do, shave/grind/trim the bottom to suit. I thought about it once long ago when I use to 'wheel my W350, that was a long time ago. It's retired from hard 'wheelin.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
04 VW Jetta Wagon TDI 5speed
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:36 am

flyin6 wrote:
dazedandconfused wrote:I run that conversion joint. The first one died in short order but this one is doing okay I guess.

We'll know soon enough if this one works

Hey, I need some help lifting the bed off the truck... :D


When for you plan on pulling it off? I may be able to give you a hand.
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby flyin6 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 11:59 am

dazedandconfused wrote:
flyin6 wrote:
dazedandconfused wrote:I run that conversion joint. The first one died in short order but this one is doing okay I guess.

We'll know soon enough if this one works

Hey, I need some help lifting the bed off the truck... :D


When for you plan on pulling it off? I may be able to give you a hand.


Any day now.

The parts for the traction bar just showed up today, and I plan to do that with the bed off. Plus, I really want to remove the old undercoating from it and do a better job on the frame before reassembly.

I think I am going to fashion a spreader bar to fit across the central stake pockets on the bed, then use my tractor to do the lifting. Thing is, I want to stand the bed up on end initially so I can scrub, blast, and sand on it.
1991.5 RCLB 7" lift, 1" body lift, P-pump motor, cut delivery valves, 4K spring, ARP, 3.54, Sterling axle Lock Rite, 6" skyjacker 37" MTR's recentered HMMV wheels. Traction bar, boxed in frame, Hydro assist brakes, dual batteries, elec air pump, lift pump, extra filter, 3-piece manifold, Diamond 4", 4" driveshaft, X-over steering, isspro tach, EGT, boost, and more...
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby Tacoclaw » Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:21 pm

A thought about the gearing, it may be easier on things to run a taller gear and just leave it out of OD when towing heavy.
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby dazedandconfused » Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:34 pm

I sent you a pm with my number did you get it?
Big Andy
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby flyin6 » Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:04 pm

Tacoclaw wrote:A thought about the gearing, it may be easier on things to run a taller gear and just leave it out of OD when towing heavy.

I don't think I'll ever tow anything heavy with this truck.
It is a backup evasion vehicle, meant more for transportation, farm and off road stuff and just getting out of town quickly.
I'm not going to change any gears anytime soon.
I have the Chevy fur anything heavy, that tank could move Kentucky if I had a strong enough hook up point!
1991.5 RCLB 7" lift, 1" body lift, P-pump motor, cut delivery valves, 4K spring, ARP, 3.54, Sterling axle Lock Rite, 6" skyjacker 37" MTR's recentered HMMV wheels. Traction bar, boxed in frame, Hydro assist brakes, dual batteries, elec air pump, lift pump, extra filter, 3-piece manifold, Diamond 4", 4" driveshaft, X-over steering, isspro tach, EGT, boost, and more...
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Re: Build it or replace it?

Postby dunes450r » Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:34 pm

RCCUMMINS89 wrote:Those military tires are SUPER light. I noticed when I ran them, my truck picked up LOADS of power. And boy howdy will they burn off (rubber is so hard). I never actually noticed how much power I gained with them until I got away from them and realized I felt like I was dragging an anchor all the time.

i thought that the actual mt/r's were really heavy, at least the set that a friend had on a 3/4 ton ford were super heavy, not sure which ones though, just 37's
1990 W250 getrag, 3.07's, 60k on full rebuild, DAP 5x14's, 12cm WG, 366 spring, 2nd gen IC not hooked up yet
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