Got the hydros on, now I have a high pedal engagement!

[Rmetzger93]

Appreciate the comments on the other thread guys. But now that I have the new hydros on, the clutch engages at the top of pedal travel rather than the bottom or middle. She's always been a higher than normal truck but my fear is that she's not engaging all the way. I checked and confirmed that the master cylinder is at full extension before the pedal hits dash or any other obstruction. Any fool proof checks here? How normal is this? I have a 90 body with a NV4500 so I went with a 90 Master Cylinder and a '94 slave with braided an-3 line and T56's to join them. The slave had a bleeder screw so I bench bled it and the clutch moves smooth like a dream, way better than before. The only thing is the high engagement..? Tell me I'm freaking out over nothing. Thanks guys.

[Rmetzger93]

Also, I have a slightly longer pushrod that a mechanic fabricated for me because the pedal travel was not allowing full disengagement of the clutch before. I bought the same master cylinder and used the same pushrod, thus the confusion. Would too long of a pushrod make the high pedal engagement? Again, the master is at, what I believe to be, full engagement.

[1973crewcab4x4!]

The longer pushrod is your culprit. Muscle car guys will cut and make adjustable ones with a long castle nut and threading your rod or using a cut long bolt. Make sure and use a jam nut to make solid. Pull the clutch cover and check / adjust for disengagement. PS you can weld a castle nut near top of clutch pedal lever and use a bolt with jam nut to hit firewall and adjust to limit over disengagement for faster shifting

[Rmetzger93]

Thanks man! I'm going to do that! Any tricks for getting a pushrod out of the master cylinder without breaking the clips? It's the push in once kind.