518 to 47rh swap

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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:10 pm

I bought my new transmission and assembled it over a few weeks. I went to swap them on a Friday afternoon and slid the new one in Friday night. There's really not any down time if you do it that way.

Sonnax or TCS are big names for aftermarket hardware. I couldn't tell you what's the best or who is the cheapest. I'm sure it's not the very best deal, but rumor has it that Goerend sells performance kits and I think Firepunk does too.

It's beside the point, but I think if you're towing over 20k all that often you need a semi. My old Dodge will tow a ton of weight, but parts wear out FAST at that weight. My Dodge will do almost anything, but the old KW will do it with a smile on its face.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby TRACTJDS0428 » Sat May 03, 2014 7:02 pm

If I can find one to build.... not having much luck. Found a basket case on ebay for $800. Missing some parts tho.
So ill need the spacer housing off of a 1994-1995 truck correct? What about drive shafts? Is the 47rh an inch shorter overall or will I need a 1 inch spacer for my front shaft and shorten the rear an inch? Is the pan the same on a 47rh as the 518? I have a deep pan already.
1993 Dodge W250, Cold Air, Borg Warner 60/68 turbo. 4" down pipe. 5x14 Injectors. Pump Mods. Airdogg II 165, Billet Fuel Tank Sump. ATS valve body, ATS converter, Pyro, Fuel pressure, Boost and Trany temp gauges. 72" T-Rex Products Long Bars. 285/75-16 Toyo Open Country M/T's. Western 9Ft MVP Ultra Mount V-Plow.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Sat May 03, 2014 7:10 pm

TRACTJDS0428 wrote:So ill need the spacer housing off of a 1994-1995 truck correct? What about drive shafts? Is the 47rh an inch shorter overall or will I need a 1 inch spacer for my front shaft and shorten the rear an inch? Is the pan the same on a 47rh as the 518? I have a deep pan already.

You'll need the flywheel housing and starter off of any 2nd gen. The 2nd gen flywheel housing is 1" thicker than the 1st gen one. That means the rear driveshaft needs to be shortened and the front one will need to be lengthened.

You can keep your trans pan.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby TRACTJDS0428 » Sun May 04, 2014 5:13 pm

I guess I dont understand what the flywheel housing is. Its been a while since ive had the trany out. The bell housing or a housing that bolts the the engine block? Im probably going with a billet flex plate and triple disc converter if that makes any difference. And at this rate I may have to buy a new trany if I dont find one.
on the shafts...do you think if I machine a 1" billet spacer for the front shaft it will hold up? Technically shouldnt change geometry at all.
1993 Dodge W250, Cold Air, Borg Warner 60/68 turbo. 4" down pipe. 5x14 Injectors. Pump Mods. Airdogg II 165, Billet Fuel Tank Sump. ATS valve body, ATS converter, Pyro, Fuel pressure, Boost and Trany temp gauges. 72" T-Rex Products Long Bars. 285/75-16 Toyo Open Country M/T's. Western 9Ft MVP Ultra Mount V-Plow.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Sun May 04, 2014 5:37 pm

The flywheel housing, adapter plate, and spacer housing are all the same thing.

Image

That's the engine side facing up. Since a lock-up converter is thicker, you'll need the thicker 2nd gen flywheel housing. I think it's about impossible to know if you'll need another spacer like this until you're installing it:

Image

I agree that an aftermarket flex plate is good insurance. On the front driveshaft stuff, I'm pretty ignorant. How much do you use 4wd?

If you'd prefer to build it yourself and you're willing to pay shipping, I could put up an add for you on CompD. That site gets a lot of traffic.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby TRACTJDS0428 » Mon May 05, 2014 6:28 pm

Ok that helps alot! Do you know any company selling the adapter plate and shim plate you had pictured? I could buy a new starter. If I can find one for the right price I would like to build my own. Honestly It will all depend on the deal and if I have the money at the time. Found a bed and door up north. Hoping to get it by the end of the month.
1993 Dodge W250, Cold Air, Borg Warner 60/68 turbo. 4" down pipe. 5x14 Injectors. Pump Mods. Airdogg II 165, Billet Fuel Tank Sump. ATS valve body, ATS converter, Pyro, Fuel pressure, Boost and Trany temp gauges. 72" T-Rex Products Long Bars. 285/75-16 Toyo Open Country M/T's. Western 9Ft MVP Ultra Mount V-Plow.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Tue May 06, 2014 4:23 am

I suppose Cummins would sell you a new adapter plate, but used would be way cheaper. I've seen them on Craigslist, usually at $50-$150. You may not need the shim plate, but you won't know until you go to install it. PATC sells them for something like $60 or $90.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby Knoberman » Sun May 18, 2014 6:05 am

The driveshafts still work as is.
92 Cummins& a 518. installed in a 86 cclb f350 4x4
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby CAJUN 93 » Sun May 18, 2014 8:37 pm

I have a 1996 dually with a 47re. I have read that there is a bushing available to allow the use of the 47rh electrical connector so I can swap a 47rh valve body and go. Anybody heard of this and if so I need a source and a price idea.


Daryl
93 d350 5spd 3.54-bhaf,stg iv,banks intercooler,bosch185,16cm,pacbrake,4" straight exh,pump mods,366 spring,leece-neville alt.
hers- 93 d250 auto 3.54- pump mods only
ours- 93 w350 dually, auto, 3.54. stock for now
parts 93 d350 auto, 92 d250 auto.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby Philip » Mon May 26, 2014 2:29 pm

CAJUN 93 wrote:I have a 1996 dually with a 47re. I have read that there is a bushing available to allow the use of the 47rh electrical connector so I can swap a 47rh valve body and go. Anybody heard of this and if so I need a source and a price idea. Daryl


A 47RE has no governor. You would need a 47RH/518 OD unit. You would need to change the rear support also. The 47RE rear support is not drilled for the governor tubes.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby CAJUN 93 » Mon May 26, 2014 7:09 pm

thanks Philip, I'm gonna use the o/d unit off the 518 and the trans guy we use for work has a bunch of rear supports I can have when I'm ready. I just need to get the giant hole for the re wiring bushed for an rh so I can start the build.

Daryl
93 d350 5spd 3.54-bhaf,stg iv,banks intercooler,bosch185,16cm,pacbrake,4" straight exh,pump mods,366 spring,leece-neville alt.
hers- 93 d250 auto 3.54- pump mods only
ours- 93 w350 dually, auto, 3.54. stock for now
parts 93 d350 auto, 92 d250 auto.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby TRACTJDS0428 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:06 pm

Ok I think I have all my parts to swap. 47rh, adapter plate, flex plate and starter. Several people have said my drive shafts will work at factory hieght?
Am I missing anything? Still gotta build the trany but want to make sure ive got everything to bolt it in. Because its a 47rh I wont have to swap od
housings or anything right? Plan on a triple disc TC, billet input and output, a real good street/pulling internals kit and valve body w/lockup controller.
1993 Dodge W250, Cold Air, Borg Warner 60/68 turbo. 4" down pipe. 5x14 Injectors. Pump Mods. Airdogg II 165, Billet Fuel Tank Sump. ATS valve body, ATS converter, Pyro, Fuel pressure, Boost and Trany temp gauges. 72" T-Rex Products Long Bars. 285/75-16 Toyo Open Country M/T's. Western 9Ft MVP Ultra Mount V-Plow.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:53 am

Got the wiring pig tail?
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby TRACTJDS0428 » Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:38 am

cmann250 wrote:Got the wiring pig tail?

No I dont have the wiring pig tail. If I have a schematic I can build my own. Unless somebody has one laying around.
1993 Dodge W250, Cold Air, Borg Warner 60/68 turbo. 4" down pipe. 5x14 Injectors. Pump Mods. Airdogg II 165, Billet Fuel Tank Sump. ATS valve body, ATS converter, Pyro, Fuel pressure, Boost and Trany temp gauges. 72" T-Rex Products Long Bars. 285/75-16 Toyo Open Country M/T's. Western 9Ft MVP Ultra Mount V-Plow.
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Re: 518 to 47rh swap

Postby cmann250 » Sun Aug 17, 2014 8:24 am

It's a gm cam sensor plug if I recall correctly. My local dc electric shop has them.
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