a518 atf+4 or other?

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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby ellis93 » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:49 am

IrishChamp wrote:Should I just change my fluid and be done with it?
what about what Sutter suggested, adding a 2nd servo return spring?
Should I be making any changes to the shift kit, I have a TFOD Diesel shift kit installed. I do plan on doing a band adjustment. I'd just like to put my pan back on with my transmission in the best shape possible.


ellis93 wrote:Silicone is used on motors and doesn't belo anywhere near a trans :lol:
3m makes some stuff called weatherstripping adhesive,comes in yellow or black,that's what I use. Any parts store has it.


No harm adjusting the bands. More than likely that is what has worn enough to leave the deposits on your pan magnet.

As for the other, I'd adjust up the front band and see how that's treats you. If that doesn't produce the disired results then dig.
I try to keep to the K.I.S.S. Principal while messing with a trans and take baby steps so you keep track of what goes on.
That's keep it simple stupid :lol:
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:27 pm

Can someone tell me what size socket I need for the two band adjustments? My instructions I found here say 5/16 8 point, I'm having trouble finding one.
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby Sutter1stgen » Wed Oct 01, 2014 2:18 pm

IrishChamp wrote:Can you explain shift overlap, if you're saying that I have overlap I'm not seeing my 2-3 shift as something reminiscent of that but I don't really know what overlap actually means. I'm supposed to take my truck on a 600 mile road trip with my wife and son this weekend, is the spring an easy install?
when you say all went to s***t do do you mean your transmission died or just lots of debris like my picture? if your trans is still going strong mind me asking how many miles sense the rebuild and sense the extra spring install?
thanks
PS. can you really see my glasses in the reflection in the photo? maybe I need new glasses, I can't really see much :)
Sutter1stgen wrote:My first pan drop was almost that bad after the rebuild. I went 500 miles all looked well, then I went 25k miles and all went to $**t.
I was freaked out as you are but I wrote it off with my converter possibly having some debris still in it, and the fact that I had a bad 2-3 shift overlap with my tight tolerances in the direct pack. A second servo return spring doubled up with the factory cured my overlap. My last two times I've had the pan off all looks well.

This is another reason I'm hesitant to install a remote bypass filter. If everything was collected and the pan was clean on the bottom, you would not be alerted to the Trans possibly self destructing.

Cool glasses by the way.

The 2-3 shift overlap is when your second gear band doesn't release before the direct drum applies. it needs to be a well timed series of events. It will feel like a slowing sensation in some severe cases, or a banged rough shift. Mine was the later of the two.
Adding the second return spring helped out perfectly.
My first pan drop didn't look bad because it was probably too soon. The next looked almost as bad as yours. After that though all seems fine. My Trans was rebuilt Jan of 2012. I've heard first oil changes can be the dirtiest that's why I was anal about getting mine done. After that the Trans has had normal wear and tear in the pan. Nothing out of the ordinary.

And yes I can really see your reflection. I've been wanting frames like those, I just have a huge skull. Lol
Eric

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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby cmann250 » Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:11 pm

IrishChamp wrote:Can someone tell me what size socket I need for the two band adjustments? My instructions I found here say 5/16 8 point, I'm having trouble finding one.

5/16" 8 point is correct. I got mine from NAPA. Some people call them double square sockets.
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:21 pm

I adjusted the bands and put it back to gather, like ellis said KISS. if things are no better I'll pull the pan again in 600-1000 miles or take it to a trans guy. I don't know why I didn't have the guy who did the rebuild address the rough shift, I really am baffled at my self. Its done it from day one of the rebuild. maybe I never let it shift at part throttle so I never noticed it...... :lol:
I got my glasses at Costco, another great place with a good selection in zennioptical dot com, their glasses start at like 6 bucks with lenses. :) I'm gonna pick up a pair of beater glasses from zenni.
thanks again.
Sutter1stgen wrote:
IrishChamp wrote:Can you explain shift overlap, if you're saying that I have overlap I'm not seeing my 2-3 shift as something reminiscent of that but I don't really know what overlap actually means. I'm supposed to take my truck on a 600 mile road trip with my wife and son this weekend, is the spring an easy install?
when you say all went to s***t do do you mean your transmission died or just lots of debris like my picture? if your trans is still going strong mind me asking how many miles sense the rebuild and sense the extra spring install?
thanks
PS. can you really see my glasses in the reflection in the photo? maybe I need new glasses, I can't really see much :)
Sutter1stgen wrote:My first pan drop was almost that bad after the rebuild. I went 500 miles all looked well, then I went 25k miles and all went to $**t.
I was freaked out as you are but I wrote it off with my converter possibly having some debris still in it, and the fact that I had a bad 2-3 shift overlap with my tight tolerances in the direct pack. A second servo return spring doubled up with the factory cured my overlap. My last two times I've had the pan off all looks well.

This is another reason I'm hesitant to install a remote bypass filter. If everything was collected and the pan was clean on the bottom, you would not be alerted to the Trans possibly self destructing.

Cool glasses by the way.

The 2-3 shift overlap is when your second gear band doesn't release before the direct drum applies. it needs to be a well timed series of events. It will feel like a slowing sensation in some severe cases, or a banged rough shift. Mine was the later of the two.
Adding the second return spring helped out perfectly.
My first pan drop didn't look bad because it was probably too soon. The next looked almost as bad as yours. After that though all seems fine. My Trans was rebuilt Jan of 2012. I've heard first oil changes can be the dirtiest that's why I was anal about getting mine done. After that the Trans has had normal wear and tear in the pan. Nothing out of the ordinary.

And yes I can really see your reflection. I've been wanting frames like those, I just have a huge skull. Lol
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Wed Oct 01, 2014 5:24 pm

me too, $4. I drove around for 22miles though to find it, gas cost me $10!!

cmann250 wrote:
IrishChamp wrote:Can someone tell me what size socket I need for the two band adjustments? My instructions I found here say 5/16 8 point, I'm having trouble finding one.

5/16" 8 point is correct. I got mine from NAPA. Some people call them double square sockets.
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:25 pm

And overlap can happen only under slow acceleration, when accelerating moderately or greater it's smooth as butter.

Sutter1stgen wrote:
IrishChamp wrote:Can you explain shift overlap, if you're saying that I have overlap I'm not seeing my 2-3 shift as something reminiscent of that but I don't really know what overlap actually means. I'm supposed to take my truck on a 600 mile road trip with my wife and son this weekend, is the spring an easy install?
when you say all went to s***t do do you mean your transmission died or just lots of debris like my picture? if your trans is still going strong mind me asking how many miles sense the rebuild and sense the extra spring install?
thanks
PS. can you really see my glasses in the reflection in the photo? maybe I need new glasses, I can't really see much :)
Sutter1stgen wrote:My first pan drop was almost that bad after the rebuild. I went 500 miles all looked well, then I went 25k miles and all went to $**t.
I was freaked out as you are but I wrote it off with my converter possibly having some debris still in it, and the fact that I had a bad 2-3 shift overlap with my tight tolerances in the direct pack. A second servo return spring doubled up with the factory cured my overlap. My last two times I've had the pan off all looks well.

This is another reason I'm hesitant to install a remote bypass filter. If everything was collected and the pan was clean on the bottom, you would not be alerted to the Trans possibly self destructing.

Cool glasses by the way.

The 2-3 shift overlap is when your second gear band doesn't release before the direct drum applies. it needs to be a well timed series of events. It will feel like a slowing sensation in some severe cases, or a banged rough shift. Mine was the later of the two.
Adding the second return spring helped out perfectly.
My first pan drop didn't look bad because it was probably too soon. The next looked almost as bad as yours. After that though all seems fine. My Trans was rebuilt Jan of 2012. I've heard first oil changes can be the dirtiest that's why I was anal about getting mine done. After that the Trans has had normal wear and tear in the pan. Nothing out of the ordinary.

And yes I can really see your reflection. I've been wanting frames like those, I just have a huge skull. Lol
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:56 pm

well s%$t, took her for a drive, feels about the same, maybe shifting a little quicker, I upped the line pressure one full turn, I wanted to go two but I don't know if my trans builder upped it any.

HOWEVER, she won't shift into OD........

could I have knocked something adjusting the front band, or is this a band adjustment error?
also, trans took 12 quarts just to register on the dipstick after a drive to warm up and in neutral on flat ground. I did 10 , drove added 2 more then drove again. the pan is 2 inches deeper than stock, I'm guessing thats about 4 quarts extra and I drained about 8 quarts out, 7 measured plus a TON on the garage floor.

2-3 shift still bangs off if I accelerate with 2 manually selected, let off throttle and then manually shift, same as before, otherwise all gears are smooth, just like before.
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:12 am

Bump, I could really use some help on my no OD situation.
EDIT. its hard to read the dipstick now with mostly clear hydraulic fluid in there but I'm 95% sure im still a couple quarts low. Could this be causing the OD issue?
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby dazedandconfused » Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:28 am

Is yours still controlled by the tps? You could have bumped something loose.
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:37 am

Yea, OD TPS is completely untouched.i poked around under the truck and there was no obvious problem but there are a couple plugs around the band adjustment on the drivers side.
EDIT. I looked around again, everything is snug, filthy but snug. The gasket is leaking a little, I notoced one of the plugs attached to a t in one of the lines has some trans fluid on it, the bottom of my truck has always been filthy and moist though from the oil vend tube.
dazedandconfused wrote:Is yours still controlled by the tps? You could have bumped something loose.
Last edited by IrishChamp on Thu Oct 02, 2014 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby dazedandconfused » Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:41 am

You can run a jumper to a switch yo test the solenoid. Ground it out and see if OD works. That should let you know if ypy knocked something loose.
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby IrishChamp » Thu Oct 02, 2014 12:14 pm

Sorry, can you be a little more specific. Are we talking about at the injection pump? I know that the tps is on top of the pump with the 3 wire plug going into it, beyond that I need more detail in order to trouble shoot this as your saying.
Thanks
dazedandconfused wrote:You can run a jumper to a switch yo test the solenoid. Ground it out and see if OD works. That should let you know if ypy knocked something loose.
1993 W250, 115k miles, pump turned up, M&H Timing Spacer, built a518 w/ steel stator spec rite, he351ve, 16" steel wheels, 255/85r16 BFG Km2's
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby dazedandconfused » Thu Oct 02, 2014 1:13 pm

The plug going into the trans. The one wire has constant power and the other grounds out to engage OD. Just tap the ground wire and ground it out with a switch.
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Re: a518 atf+4 or other?

Postby cmann250 » Thu Oct 02, 2014 2:30 pm

Andy is talking about the switch that is plugs "down" into the trans further to the rear. IIRC, the rear wire is hot and the front is ground. Unplug it and put a test light to it to make sure.

I always run my finger down the dipstick because the yellow fluid is hard to see.
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