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These are the instructions for converting your 1989-1993 ‘1st Gen’ Dodge factory automatic column-mounted gear lever handle to accept the 2nd-gen overdrive version. This conversion moves the operation of the o/d on-off switch (mounted next to the radio on the front face of the first gen dash) up to the tip of your auto shift lever. These instructions are based on several successful conversions done to many 1st gen trucks. Other year model trucks may have minor differences. Please read each paragraph carefully and completely before accomplishing the actions.
Parts:
Mopar Part number: #1-04690522AB - Cost is about $45 from any dealer
Installation time: About 1 hour
Switch Operation:
The factory overdrive switch is mounted flush with the dash and serves as both the activation and indicator light. You will need to access the wires plugged into the back of the switch. The switch can be pulled out of the dash panel but it can be difficult as it is a very snug fit. The wires can also be accessed from underneath the dash.
There are several wires on the back of the switch - one of them is orange/white stripe - this is the 'trigger’ wire. The new lever only has two small, thin black wires - one will be spliced into the orange/white trigger wire and one will go to ground. The black wires are not labeled, and it does not matter which wire goes to trigger or to ground. When wired up, both the original and new column-mounted switch will trigger the o/d on and off and will also light up the original o/d switch light on the dash.
Column covers:
You will need a small torx bit. When you take apart the plastic covers from your steering column, be VERY CAREFUL not to shatter or crack the plastic. It is old and can be very fragile. It does not come apart easily - take your time and 'work' it back and forth, applying pressure to separate them. They'll come apart eventually, but some of the ones that have never been apart are real buggers because two spots are 'pressed' together, much like a tight locating pin on a bellhousing.
Removing the factory lever:
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big pair of channel lock pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the housing and slightly off centered from the pin. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) you can then use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One healthy tap is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse.
As you prepare to remove the original lever take note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever, and remove the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.
Installing the new o/d lever:
The new lever hooks right in place of the old one. Take note of the position of the original lever in relation to the little return spring (when you pull back on the lever to go into gear it automatically returns to the rearward position via this spring - you'll see it). Once you get the lever to where it looks like it's in, it really isn't. The return spring will be on the back side of the tip of the lever. You'll have to 'convince' it to go in, and when it does you'll know it. Once in place reinstall the roll pin, pointy end down, and squeeze it back in its seat with the channel lock's again. If possible, try to avoid tapping it.
Wiring:
The most difficult part of this conversion is locating the wiring going to the original o/d switch. Put on a pair of safety glasses, grab a flash light, and with your feet up on your d-side seat and your head under the steering column, look up under the dash and you will eventually find the wire loom. Locate the orange wire with the white stripe.
Next, grab the new 2nd gen lever and you’ll notice a nice, clean factory plastic connector on the end of the wiring – cut it off. There are two wires molded together in the 2nd gen harness and you will need those wires separated so you can splice them into the 1st gen harness, so carefully 'peel' those two black wires apart leaving about 4" worth of single wire each. Be sure the wires don’t strip off their protective sheathing. Also, the 2nd gen wires are not long enough as-is, so you will have to lengthen the two black wires in order to give the wiring plenty of slack. Slack is good - you can always zip tie it up if you have too much. We have found adding 6 inches to each black wire works good.
Finally, find the orange/white stripe 'trigger' wire on the original switch and 'splice' it into either of the new black 2nd gen lever wires. The little blue plastic splice connectors work great and the splice can usually be done up under the dash. Take your time. Next, attach the other new wire to ground anywhere convenient under the dash. The wiring is done.
Testing the circuit:
Once you have the wiring hooked up (and before you reattach all the steering column plastic covers), turn your key to run (not start), look at the original o/d switch, and push the button at the tip of the shift lever. If the little orange [o/d-off] light comes on, your wiring is correct. Every time the ‘ignition’ key is cycled on a 1st gen the o/d operation defaults to 'on', so when you hit the button on the 2nd gen lever the [o/d-off] light should illuminate on the original switch. If the [o/d off] light does not come on and the [cargo] light does, go get a beer and try again 'cause you have your wiring a bit jacked up. If the [o/d-off] light comes on, go get two beers and celebrate your mad wiring and electrical skills!
Reassembly of the column covers:
Put the covers back together in reverse order of disassembly. You might want to slightly hog out the centering hole for the alignment pins, slightly - they'll just make you mad again if you ever have to remove them again. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS - they strip easily. Once the circuit is tested and operational, zip-tie any loose wiring.
Your conversion is complete!
Hope these instructions help you give your rig a bit of ‘new’ feel to it. You will find you’ll use the o/d now to shift gears and keep the engine in its power band. Any updates or tips you find while doing the conversion please send them to us and we’ll update the instructions as necessary.
Many thanks,
- Sam “Mad Max”
ASA Modifieds
