getrag

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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Postby shadrach » Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:55 pm

Because my buddies 93 W350 is his work truck he needs it to be running all the time. No truck no work. No work no money ( and mad customers ). If it wasn't for the fact it is a 4X4 I would suggest a tranny from a medium duty truck. That's why we are considering the G56. No tranny is perfect but with his weight ,14k+ , the different ratios would be nice. Shadrach
1) 1984 D350 Crew Cab 360 V8 auto [b]FOR SALE[/b]
2) 1992 Club Cab D250 auto- with 93 engine
3) 2003 Quad Cab Laramie 4X4 CTD HO G56 6 speed
shadrach
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby Diesel Nut » Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:16 am

Only Problem I see with using te G56 is the overdrive ratio. Might be nice for pulling trailers in OD, but unloaded its going to suck. Also, what gear ratio does this truck have? Sounds like he might have 3.54 where if he tows that much that often 4.10 would be more benifitial.
2006 Dodge 2500 4x4
1991.5 250 Reg cab - Parts Runner
1990 350 Reg cab - Wants to be fast
www.dieselnut.com
Amsoil Dealer
Diesel Nut
fuel pin?
 
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Postby dpuckett » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:44 pm

Diesel Nut- not to start an argument, but I have never had a problem towing with 3.54 gears, and have had some loads grossing in the mid 20s. MMiller has been towing heavy loads with his 93 for a long time with 3.54s.

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
dpuckett
14mm rotor
 
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Postby dodgetkboy78 » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:06 pm

My getrag has 331,000 miles on it now, and has pulled it's whole life. I never heard of the tranny being replaced by the previous owner, but me, and the previous owner, have drove big trucks before.

My getrag does sound like it's going to hit me in the feet in third, or fourth, if you are under about 2000, but if you don't get on the fuel feed hard, it is fine. Mine also has no synchro's anymore, so, I downshift with no clutch, and upshift pushing in the clutch only when it is going into gear, not out of. It's kinda hard to drive, but I drive it like you would a bigger medium duty tranny.Let the slack take it out of gear when you let off when upshifting, don't push the clutch in, and when downshifting, give it throttle to take the slack out, instead of pushing in the clutch to get it out of gear. When you just push in the clutch to get it out, the clutch lets go, and you get a double bang bang, because the back of the clutch actually speeds up for a second when released. (the tranny side of the clutch) When upshifting, pull back on the shifter when releasing the throttle, let it fall out, push in the clutch at the right time, and put it in the higher gear. It's easier, I think, and the only way to makde the big synchro tranny's last forever, without the synchro's blowing out. A simple pushing of the clutch, and pushing on the shifter till the synchro's speed up the backside so it will going into gear, then letting the clutch out, doesn't only kill the synchro's, but yoinks the tranny every time you let the clutch out. (well, tranny, motor mounts, driveline, rear end, and everything else in the way) I hope I made sense, I have a hard time explaining myself on a keyboard.
dodgetkboy78
fuel screw!!!!
 
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