trans

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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Postby racerdude_9 » Tue May 13, 2008 6:33 pm

how many gears are in each. the nv4500 and 360getrag. and which is better?
1991 CTD
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Postby dazedandconfused » Wed May 14, 2008 3:08 am

Both 5 speeds and both have problems. Getrag seems to be a little weaker. The NV4500 has problems with 5th gear nut.
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1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Postby dpuckett » Wed May 14, 2008 6:49 pm

I'll put any of my G360s up against an NV4500 any day. The probelm with the Getrags is lack of lube at stock levels, and they dont like to be lugged. Keep the RPMS up, and keep the oil full and changed often, and it'll go 500K. Plus, the oil isnt anything special- engine oil of your choice, not $40/qt Syntorq.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby racerdude_9 » Wed May 14, 2008 8:12 pm

i have a 727 in now. and how hard would it be to switch to a nv4500. im not doing any towing. just going fast is my main goal for this truck.
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Postby SChandler » Fri May 16, 2008 8:01 am

What method of going fast are you wanting to do? If you're planning on drag racing the truck, the automatic is better. It's hard to shift a truck transmission quickly, plus the automatic will keep the turbo spooled between shifts where the manual won't. As far as swapping in the manual, you will need a clutch and flywheel, hydraulic clutch linkage, transmission, clutch and brake pedals, manual trans tunnel or cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, and other things I'm forgetting about. Is your truck 2wd or 4wd? If it's 4wd you'll need to get the appropriate transfer case input shaft and coupler for the manual (the auto is 23 spline and the manual is 29 spline, IIRC).
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby racerdude_9 » Fri May 16, 2008 8:50 pm

its just a daily driver. racing light to light lol
1991 CTD
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fuel pin?
 
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Postby SChandler » Sat May 17, 2008 9:58 pm

Well, then either one should suit your needs. The automatic would be easier because the truck is already set up for it, but a well-built automatic gets spendy fast. At this point it's a matter of personal preference. Unless you're set on shifting your own gears, I would go with one of the automatics. The easiest to do would be the 4 speed auto from a 92 or 93, but you don't get a lockup torque converter with that model.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby racerdude_9 » Sun May 18, 2008 1:26 pm

when i leave off the line on the brake will she hold up?
1991 CTD
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Postby SChandler » Sun May 18, 2008 8:45 pm

I would assume that an auto built by a good trans shop would be able to handle all that you could throw at it, but I have no personal experience with the autos so someone else will have to answer that. As far as the manuals, they can take some abuse (the NV4500 is popular with diesel pickup sled pullers), the clutch and driveshaft/u-joints will need attention if you really want to abuse it.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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