Is this a good deal?

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Is this a good deal?

Postby peobryant » Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:18 pm

This is listed over a the DTR. I really want to put a 5spd in my truck is this a good price for the transmission? Also if I did buy this what else would I have to buy to make it work with my truck?

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/clas ... 8221/cat/2
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1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby peobryant » Fri Jul 11, 2008 1:01 am

nvm, I have a new question.

I am going to rebuild my tranny (eventually), so what can I do to a 1st Gen tranny?
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Who knows?

Postby Ace » Fri Jul 11, 2008 1:36 am

I think the price is a little high for a trans in unknown condition. I wouldn't put it in my truck without new bearings and synchros. Maybe that price minus the cost of the parts.

The best thing to do for the driveline on a stick truck with the trans out is get the flywheel machined for a ball bearing. Especially if you are going to be towing, the pilot bushing is a common, known weakness.
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Postby PToombs » Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:25 pm

I think this is a big misconception! :shock: The only time the pilot bushing (or bearing) is in use is when the clutch is in. It's not hard to prevent wear, don't sit with the clutch in! If you have to sit at a light, drivethru, traffic, or anything, put it in neutral and let the clutch out!
;) When I did my clutch at 189k, the bushing looked good. (I changed it anyway, as I was in there and I learned the hard way about throwout bearings and what happens if if you don't change them. :cry: ) I almost never sit with my foot on the clutch until I'm ready to go, or I know it's a short light.

Best thing to do? Overfill it with oil by 1 quart.
Last edited by PToombs on Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:28 pm

I love the people that sit on a hill at a stop sign and ride the clutch to keep from rolling back. Sizzle, sizzle, smoke...
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Ace » Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:44 am

I'm not talking about the throwout bearing, Pete....
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Postby PToombs » Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:09 pm

Pilot bearing too, Ace. Only turns when the clutch pedal is pushed in. ;)
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Well that may be true...

Postby Ace » Thu Jul 17, 2008 5:34 am

But what happens when you let the clutch out? If you're beatin' on it or towing heavy that bushing won't last. Just because yours did makes you the exception not the rule, Pete. How do you use your truck? Do any sled pulling or big cattle trailers?
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Postby Richie O » Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:18 pm

Im with you Pete, Input shaft and flywheel are at same speed when clutch is engaged. There is no friction when they are at same speed.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:50 pm

Basic Laws of Physics. If the clutch is engaged, the shaft is turning the same speed as the flywheel. Unless it's slipping, or you tore the center out of it.

My cousin had the truck before me, he towed heavy, 10-15k lbs. over 1/2 the time he drove it. He put 189k on the stock clutch, bushing looked good when I changed it.
IMO, just have to know how to drive a stick, that's all.
pete

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Postby Ace » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:42 am

So what do you need a bushing there for in the first place? It's because even the strongest shaft coupling can flex with enough torque applied. That would be some of that physics "applied." The clutch/input coupling behind the Cummins is extremely sensitive to this, more so than most. So under normal conditions (define normal?!) it may well last forever. But (big but) the moment it begins to wear for whatever reason, depending on conditions, you may (very quickly) destroy the transmission and other things south of the crankshaft before you know what happened.

That's why I said it was the best thing you could do. Maybe should have said the best "upgrade" you could do. It is a known weakness. But what do I know. :roll:
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