Wheel Studs

[Ace]

Aluminum wheels should be re-torqued within 24-48 hrs. or a hundred miles or so after initially installing them. I always re-torque them again every six months or so whether I think they need it or not. Also make sure to keep the lug seats dry or absent of any type lubricant or anti-sieze you may use on the threads.

Aluminum and steel heat/expand cool/shrink at different rates and so are more susceptible to working loose when bolted together, whether it's a wheel/hub or any other dissimilar metal assembly. Also, they suffer more from corrosion especially in a salted road winter enviroment, due to greater electrolysis potential from the dissimilar metals.

[MMiller]

Well, I took the studs that were recommended, and the new lug nuts I bought, and went over to dad's shop to change them out.(My tools and garage are 2.5 hrs away, and I'm trying to get my house and new garage built......) I pulled off the wheel, the axle shaft and the drum. I pounded out a broken one, and got a new one out of the box. I then pounded out an undamaged stud and compaired the two. The new stud is larger diameter, the same length as the studs that are in it, and the threaded section is shorter on the new stud! The new stud has the threads cut off about 1/4" from the end. The 1/2 studs that are in it now have more thread holding the rim on then the studs that I bought.

So the short of it is this. DO NOT purchase the part numbers above to try and upgrade, as IMHO they are not much better. When you thread on the new lug nut, the nut only turns about 7 revolutions before its up against the rim. The 1/2" studs are 12-13 turns.

I'm going to try and dig up the size and part number of a stud in an F250, about an 88-89 vintage. Even if I have to drill out the hub and the drum, I'm going to get these upgraded. Thanks Rumblefish for your help, I don't know what went wrong. I will keep you guys posted.

Michael

[Ace]

I remember looking for studs when I was starting to think about wheel/tire options about six months ago and I could not find anything in a 1/2" stud to fit this hub, except the stock replacement. I had several parts guys going through their books, and the the answer was always the same - they don't make them, never did. This particular size/knurl only ever came in one length. That's when I decided to go with wheel adapters.

[MunK]

I can't for the life of me remember how I did this on the OEM Dana 60 rear in my 1985 Crew Cab. It is VERY possible I took some studs from a single wheel Ford Dana 70 and drilled the hubs to match..soon after that I broke the pinion gear on that 60 and upgraded to a 70...then I broke that pinion gear and finally went GM 14 Bolt....so it's been a few rear axles ago lol

I upgraded the front to Chevy hubs (used Dodge Rotors) and got my 9/16 studs up front that way. (Personally I bet the Chevy Studs will fit in the Dodge hubs with some work)

Wish I could be more helpful....but I am running the long 9/16 stud like you mentioned the Ford's have. And I did at one time have them in a Dodge Dana 60 rear axle.