U-Joints

How they work, how they don't work, and how to fix them

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U-Joints

Postby oldestof11 » Mon Jun 04, 2007 2:46 pm

Ok, so now I have a shudder between 10-15 mph. I am guessing the u-joints rather than the clutch or rear-end because it happens only at 10-15 mph, not just around corners but on the straight aways, not just in 2nd but 3rd also, and no clutch slippage in any gear. Do you think I am right?

What is the best kind to get? I also have some play in the rear-end, about 1/16th of a turn. It is really noticeable when I am shifting and coasting then go to speed up.

Need some info here. Whats the best u-joint to get, how do I fix the play in the rear-end, and if I get in the rear-end, could I put in 3.73's or 3.55's for more mpg's? I know my right foot is connected to the mpg's but will going up in ratio help too? I plan on getting wider tires (265/75 R16's) and pulling at the fair here.

Thanks for any input!

Jon
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93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Postby Philip » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:44 pm

Go for a drive. After you get back slide under the truck. See if any U-joints are warm to the touch. If one is replace it.

If you have 3:54's you can go all the way up to 4:56 gears with your current carrier. If you have 3:08's then your stuck with that gear.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby oldestof11 » Tue Jun 05, 2007 2:48 pm

Let me clarify here. I am NOT wanting to put in a bigger gear for stuff like bigger tires but one that would increase MPG's. I have 4:10's right now.

Jon
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Postby Philip » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:44 pm

Ok now you said what your wanting to do. You can drop a set of 3:54's on the current carrier you have. But if your planing on pulling with the truck. The 4:10's would most likely be better.

A 1/16th of a turn is quite a bit of end play. Our rear axle normaly should have around .0010th's back lash. This is the play you feel in drive shaft slop.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby gman07 » Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:07 pm

I'm in the same situation. I have a squeak in reverse as well as quite a bit of driveshaft slop. What U-joints do these trucks have? (I remember there was some number, maybe 1410?) Can heavier ones be purchased and installed easily and relatively inexpensively?
1992.5 W250 pump tweaked, straight pipe, gauges, 3200 Gov. spring, AFC lever partially ground, timed at 1/8", Fuel pin ground, BHAF, HTT Stage IV H1C/E 60/12wg (ported), Transgo shift kit, KDP clothes-hangered, 202,000 miles - 36psi, 1250°
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Postby Philip » Wed Jun 06, 2007 5:46 am

Our trucks take the 1410 series U-joints for the rear drive shaft. The front axle on the 4x4's take a smaller U-joint. I haven't replaced one yet so I don't know the series it takes.

I normaly use U-joints from NAPA. They run around $20. or so each.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby dpuckett » Wed Jun 06, 2007 11:19 am

The spider gears can also give the illusion of excessive backlash- they will turn inside the carrier. the best way to check backlash is to pull the rear cover and get out the dial indicator.

I get only Spicer u-joints. I think the last ones I bought were around $20, too.

Daniel
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