One Wire Alternator

Does it have spark? And other questions...

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One Wire Alternator

Postby cougar » Thu Aug 25, 2022 10:30 am

Anyone have any experience with them? Any recommendations? Any issues? I'm leaning this way because my 1st gen has a never-ending charging issue in one form or another and frankly, I'm tired of it. Fix one issue, it moves somewhere else. Alternators, regulators, wiring/rewiring. It always comes back. It's either overcharging or not charging. When it works, it works. Been like this sense I bought it. Time to do something different.
RIP 91.5 W250 5 speed. The great experiment.
92 W250 HD 47RH with Compushift. Upgraded H1C to 62/60/16, Scheid Lightning VE, 60# valve springs, DAP 7X.010 injectors, 4" DE exhaust, home made cooler tubes.
01 2500 "the work truck".
cougar
14mm rotor
 
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Re: One Wire Alternator

Postby Richie O » Wed Aug 31, 2022 5:33 am

I need to do something different too. I have never been able to get the voltage stable in my 92 and 93 with rewired external old school regulators. I have tried every trick in the book. Relay's, heavy gauge wires, grounded regulators, Mopar brand regulators, regulators installed beside the battery,,,,, I give up. The bright dim bright dim bright dim sthi drives me crazy. My 89 with the external regulator as standard equipment has never had that issue even with cheap Chinese regulators and factory wiring.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Re: One Wire Alternator

Postby cougar » Thu Sep 01, 2022 5:52 am

Not have much of a response from anyone I stepped out on a limb and ordered one from Hagemeister Enterprises out of Oregon. They had one specifically for Dodge with a Cummins. It seems to be working fine after a couple minor glitches. #1 and most important, you can't use a battery isolator. You have to have battery voltage on the BAT 2 terminal in order for it to work. #2: It does not have ground lugs on it like the OEM ones do. You have to make sure you have good contact through the brackets. After removing any paint or rust, I suggest copper anti seize. It is conductive and keeps any corrosion out. #3: If you have an automatic with the OEM cooler, you will need to reposition the coolant line slightly to clear the back of the alternator. Other than that, everything was straight forward.
RIP 91.5 W250 5 speed. The great experiment.
92 W250 HD 47RH with Compushift. Upgraded H1C to 62/60/16, Scheid Lightning VE, 60# valve springs, DAP 7X.010 injectors, 4" DE exhaust, home made cooler tubes.
01 2500 "the work truck".
cougar
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 951
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 3:31 pm
Location: The Valley of no concern, AK
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