No AC, Windows, Radio etc.

[delinquent]

Well my 91.5 is giving me fits. Over night I have had a wiring problem. All at once my A/C blower motor, power windows, radio lost power. All my instruments, interior lighting and power door locks still work. I checked the fuse panel beneath the steering column and all fues were good. What is going on??? All worked fine, and showed no signs of going bad.

[ellis93]

Could be a Bad ignition switch or the fuseable link under the hood.

[collegekid]

check the wires that run from under the dash, under the carpet up to the dome light, I wore through mine, had the same problem....

[dazedandconfused]

Brett look at the fusable links under the hood. The orange wire on mine wasnt getting power and I lost the radio and blower. Mine the wire was brocken in the black distribution block. Second spot from left.

[delinquent]

thanks guys, will check it out in the a.m.

[Horus]

This just happened to me too. Lost the heater and windows. There is no power getting to the fuse panel via a black wire with a red stripe. I'll look for the stuff mentioned above in the morning.

[collegekid]

when that happened to me, I couldn't find the problem, spent several hours tracing wires, finally got frustrated, and put a jumper wire to the last fuse panel supply, problem fixed

[Horus]

when that happened to me, I couldn't find the problem, spent several hours tracing wires, finally got frustrated, and put a jumper wire to the last fuse panel supply, problem fixed

I wass under the impression the wire to the last fuse panel was a keyed on only. No problems running constant hot to the windows, radio, heater end?

[collegekid]

IIRC there are two that are keyed power on and off, jump from your bad one to the good one. If I remember ill take some pics tomorrow of it all

[Horus]

Oh, I see what you're saying. After giving it some thought I think I'll run a decent sized power wire from the battery to the cab. Then I'll use a functional keyed source from the back of the fuse block to trip a relay and sail power to the the windows and heater section of the block.

I'm in the same boat BTW. I've got power past the initial "distribution tree" under the hood. There is power past the fusable links as well. The problem is somewhere in the dash. Screw that, I'm bypassing the whole mess.

[ellis93]

Ya'll could take the column plastic off and test the electric part of the ignition switch.

[collegekid]

these ole dodges are a pain in the a$$ with their wiring

[oldestof11]

I am about ready to say "Eff this chit." Been slowly deleting the previous 2 owners crap, adding my own, and getting confused. Going this route I think....

http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

Popular among the restoration crowd...

Painless Wiring wants about $660 for the same thing...

[collegekid]

nice find, it would be "new" wires, less chance of a mess up, and you would know what wire goes to what and how it goes there

[Horus]

I am fixed and back on the road.

Did it just as I said in my previous post. From the battery I ran some 10 gage wire with a fuse back into the cab to a 30 amp relay I placed under the dash next to the fuse panel. Previously I had installed another fused power wire for the trailer brake controller as well as a constant hot accessory plug. Seeing as I no longer use the factory cigar lighter I pulled it's fuse and drew power with a spade connector to trip the relay. Bam! Full power to the heater and windows.

Heres the kicker. This had obviously been a problem for the previous owner as I figured out what went wrong on me while I was under there. The previous owner had already jumped power from one keyed source to the other at the base of the column with a fuse holding link. The fuse was blown and one end of the wire was partially melted. Not a short melt but a long gradual overheating kinda melted.

Everything works now and there is no power to any of the partially melted wire. Turns out I was running all the keyed accessories off of one factory circuit this whole time and it finally gave out. Now the only extra load the still functioning factory keyed circuit sees is the minuscule draw needed for the relay.