Looking for a how to remove heater grid system

[Mckinney]

First off I searched as best I could. Im looking for a how to on what i am able to remove when deleting the heater grid system. Today one of the posts of the relays melted completely off and since i live in southern california i think i would rather just remove the whole system than repair it. My truck has a terrible wiring situation so any wiring and unnecessary parts that i can get rid of the better. Im new and dont want to rip anything out that can cause me damage or headaches down the road.

So my question is, what all can i remove form the grid heater system without anything bad happening?
Can i remove both relays and all the wiring going to them? I dont mind the WTS light and would probably remove the bulb.

Any help is much appreciated and im sorry if this was an unnecessary new post.

My truck is an 1989 non IC D250

[PToombs]

I would just unhook the power wires going to the relays and unplug the small activator wires. Tape the ends of the power wires real good and tie it out of the way. Then you can pull the relays and the wires going to the grids. You can remove the grids too, they make a spacer plate that goes in there instead.

[Mckinney]

That's great. You make it sound so simple but that really helps me out being new to this 12V. Thanks again!

[PToombs]

It's not really that hard! Just start at the grids and remove everything from there back.

[Mckinney]

Well my plan to remove the heater grid system has gone haywire!

Ever since the solenoid prong melted off and the grid heater has been disconnected Ive had some starting issues which is confusing me because the coldest it has been here is 45* and I have never had an issue before. When i try to start it turns over but does not stay running. This happens about 7-10 times until i can start the truck. Also I noticed that holding down the gas pedal about half way helps a lot but does not alway work. The only other adjustment I have made in the past couple days is tightening my throttle linkage. When I made the adjustment I didn't realize the TV cable needed .225" of gap before initiating but after following the service manual it is now adjusted properly. Since that adjustment I have been off work and haven't tried to start it when it is the coldest outside. I guess i should have tried that first and see before posting all this, but any ideas on what it could be?

Also since the solenoid melted off one of the prongs, is this a sign that my intake heater sensor is bad and causing the grid heater to stay on?

[PToombs]

Which prong is bad? a large one or a small one? Maybe the solenoid stuck on, it happens. Put a test light on the grid side of the solenoid and check with the key off, on, and after starting. It should be off, on, then intermittent. If you think it's bad just unplug the small wires on the bad one and use 1 solenoid to run 1 grid. It's better than nothing.
I notice my 2nd gen starts like yours if it's 20 degrees out and I don't let the grids cycle and just start it.

[Mckinney]

The large prong melted off. I will be getting a new solenoid soon and I will try to hook it up to a switch in the cab. Seems weird that has that much affect on it. I thought I read that they were only for emission purposes

[PToombs]

Yes and no, they help reduce smoke on startup, that's emissions, and it definitely starts better with them! Put a push button or some type of momentary switch in the cab, you don't want to flip it on and forget it and melt everything again.
If it was me I'd check it again with the new solenoid to make sure what's happening. Pretty sure if the computer keeps it on the "wait to start" light will stay on. I bet the solenoid stuck on the old one.