ksb switch bypass voltage

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ksb switch bypass voltage

Postby IRoss » Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:46 am

does anyone see a problem with sending a full 12-13.5V to the ksb solenoid via a toggle, vs. the 8-10Volts it apparently gets through the switch in the manifold? I dont't want to melt anything in the pump(I think I have read that the ksb is a sort of wax element?) I realize that increased vane pressure in the pump is a result of ksb abuse, this is strictly a warm-up aid because my temp switch doesnt...
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Postby cummins king » Sat Jan 05, 2008 11:06 am

i have my ksp to a toggle switch from the battery and i have no problem, i flick the switch on warm up and when im doin stuped stuff gives you a 6 degree timming i belive, i havent had any problems but i dont run it all the time, and yess it increases the case presure about 75 psi, that wont be a problem, on my truck i can run 275psi case pressure with the ksb on
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Postby dpuckett » Wed Jan 09, 2008 4:32 pm

I ran my KSB switch from the fuel shut off solenoid, through the firewall into the cab, and back to the KSB. Basically took the stock setup and extended it to the cab. I can definitely tell when it kicks on in the cold- instant smoothing of idle.

Mine's been like that a year and a half, and no issues so far.

Daniel
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:19 pm

Daniel, how long does it take to notice a difference? IE, how long before it activates? I got a little project I'm gonna do. ;)
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Postby cummins king » Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:15 pm

it changes right away
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Postby PToombs » Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:41 pm

Oh Goody! :D Thanks CK! ;)
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Postby cummins king » Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:43 pm

no problem
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Postby dpuckett » Mon Feb 11, 2008 3:51 pm

Yup, notice the difference right away, if I am below about 15-1800rpm. Is this normal? From a chart I saw here one time, there was an increase in case pressure across the board, not just on the lower end. I'm beginning to think I have advance piston issues, as the MPGs suck like a two bit whore, and sometimes it runs real good, other times, not so much. If you have an idea, PM me or start a new thread- I dont want to hijack this thread any more than I have.

DP
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Postby cummins king » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:31 pm

no problem Dpuckett, this is the place for case pressure and stuff like that, i dont understand what you trying to say exacly,

but case pressure rises as the rmps rise, and when you switch the ksb on the case pressure rises more, and you can manualy adjest case pressure, by tapping the reglator

let me know what you mean and i will try to help u, i have a case pressure gauge and i have it set so when im at 3000rpms its at 275psi, probly the max you want to go, things granaide at 300psi :lol:
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Postby dpuckett » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:16 pm

What I meant was that I dont notice any change in performance or tone when I hit the switch at say, 1900+ RPM. It's like there isnt any more advance after I hit that point. I could be mistaken, as I dont have a case pressure gauge.

BTW- where does one tap in for a case pressure gauge? And, are we shooting for higher or lower pressure when trying to achieve max (or even mediocre) MPGs?

Thanks,

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby IRoss » Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:02 am

Daniel, what are the other symptoms of advance piston issues....I dont have the switch bypassed yet, wend I notice a real lag at 15-18 until it warms up I thought it wa just that...Besides real bad mpg despite doing everything possible to inrease them, and once in a while, accelerating at around 19-2000, it will really pick up, whereas usually its kinda of a steady and flat curve....it also blows heavy gray until spool-up, and I feel that it shouldn't, as I have the top screws all the way up and the fuel screw backed out right now....if the advance piston is sticking will it also potentially be leaking fuel into the block? Timing is bumped a good 3/16.....
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Postby cummins king » Fri Feb 22, 2008 11:38 am

do yo have the afc lever removed
the ksb is to advance the timing and pressure for cool weather start ups, it it is left stock it should preform fine, i have it hooked to a switch so i can us it in the winter and when it roming time, try hooking it up to a switch and put it on when you start it for 15 sec then flick it off see if it makes a difrence, i dont think this is the problem it sounds like you removed the afc lever
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Postby IRoss » Fri Feb 22, 2008 3:02 pm

Everything on the pump is stock, with the exception of, as mentioned, the starwheel being at the top and the smoke screw plugged..I notice a difference, sure, with the ksb hotwired, but only really when its cold.. ..its a real dog, too, with the fuel screw backed out, if the timing is over-advanced will it cause incomplete burn?
91.5IC 4x4 5spd extra springs
valet, 190s, ,18cm, 4"ëxh.
H4 conversion w/relays
rwal mia w/prop. valve
IRoss
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 11:23 am
Location: YMIR BC(we got snow)
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Postby cummins king » Sat Feb 23, 2008 11:07 am

what do you mean buy smoke screew pluged, do you me that little steal hose that goes from top of pump to the intake, if you pluged that then thats were your problem is, you cant plug that with out removing the afc lever

joel
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Postby IRoss » Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:27 pm

no, I mean the pre-load screw..
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