No low-beams

Does it have spark? And other questions...

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No low-beams

Postby JSBlack » Tue May 26, 2009 9:52 am

Gentlemen,

I am not a great diagnostician when it comes to my 1stgen and electrical problems. I generally stab away at a problem, replacing parts until it works. Notwithstanding, if anyone can recommend some good reading on automotive electrical diagnostics, and what tools to get, and what beverage to mix before undertaking car-wiring problems, I am receptive.

Okay. One day recently, during my foray into speedometer and odometer repair (don't ask), I turned on the headlights and didn't have any. I don't know what I was thinking, but new headlights didn't cost much, so I started there. Still no lights. I do have running lights. I played with the hi-lo beam switch an noticed it will light the hi beams, but won't stay on high beam.

My on-off switch for the headlight seems to work beautifully. I can dim my dash lights and turn my dome light off and on. Surely it can be that.

So, I ordered the hi-lo switch which was about $20. Today I installed it, and nothing has changed.

I am now thinking I perhaps have a fusible link that has fried, which controls the low beams? I am looking at a number of them bundled on the driver's-side fender-well, but don't see one that is definitively toast. What to do? Any input or direction?

Me
'90 single-axle 1-ton, 4WD, sgl cab. Flatbed (for welder). Diesel, of course!
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Postby Ace » Tue May 26, 2009 10:55 am

The headlights on these trucks (and many other Mopars of similar and prior vintage, for that matter) should be run off dedicated relays because they get full current through the switch in stock form. Not one of Ma Mopar's best ideas. They'll be brighter and the switch will last longer if you run them off relays.
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Postby dpuckett » Tue May 26, 2009 3:43 pm

All I can say is find a factory manual for your year pickup and look at the electrical diagrams.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby PToombs » Tue May 26, 2009 5:21 pm

And find an electrically savvy buddy who will work for cold beverages. It will save you money in parts and time! ;-)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Solved!

Postby JSBlack » Tue May 26, 2009 6:10 pm

I replaced all the obvious fusible links,-scary thing: most of them had been replaced with standard wire of the same gauge at some point. I had to use wire, but only a couple gauges tinier than what was there. There just isn't much selection here, and I have to hit the highway tomorrow.

It didn't solve the problem. Finally I replaced the on-off switch, and that did it. I had thought it the least likely culprit, as the dash-rheostat and cabin light all worked beautifully.

The odometer started working!!!!! I can't believe it! It was stalled at 1.1 for a couple or more miles. Must 'ave torn loose some cobwebs or something. I am thrilled.

After my recent rear drum/ full floating axle rebuild (very proud of myself) I am noticing the parking brake light and antilock warning lights are lit. Everything seems fine, I am thinking to just disconnect the battery for a little while, per Haynes, to reset.

I am very interested in the headlight relay idea. Is this a case of cobble together what you need with a list from someone who has done it, or is it a turn-key kit that one can buy?

Thanks guys!
'90 single-axle 1-ton, 4WD, sgl cab. Flatbed (for welder). Diesel, of course!
JSBlack
fuel pin?
 
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Joined: Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:57 am
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