Brake Light and Anti-lock DASH LIGHT ON

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Brake Light and Anti-lock DASH LIGHT ON

Postby dieselhotrodder » Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:10 pm

i have a 90 cummins dually. 5 speed... i just notice someone had the computer unplugged... my heater motor wouldnt work. so i was looking round and found the black box behind the glovebox was unplugged.. so i plugged it in. everything works great now. then the RED BRAKE LIGHT and orange ANTI_LOCK light are beaming in my face..,.??? my trucj doesnt even have antilock that i know of.. ANY IDEAS! i want the lights gone.
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Postby Farmboy » Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:31 pm

My trucks ABS light has been on since I bought my truck. The previous owner said that he had a shop look at it and everything looked ok so he just ingnored it. As i have been since I took owenership. If you find a fix, please let me know.
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Re: Brake Light and Anti-lock DASH LIGHT ON

Postby Richie O » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:27 pm

dieselhotrodder wrote:i have a 90 cummins dually. 5 speed... i just notice someone had the computer unplugged... my heater motor wouldnt work. so i was looking round and found the black box behind the glovebox was unplugged.. so i plugged it in. everything works great now. then the RED BRAKE LIGHT and orange ANTI_LOCK light are beaming in my face..,.??? my trucj doesnt even have antilock that i know of.. ANY IDEAS! i want the lights gone.


That plug behind the glove box should have nothing to do with heater motor. It is the brain for the rear wheel ABS. Unplug it and the light will go away.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:29 pm

Unplug the black box! Farmboy, it's behind the glovebox.
The sensor for the ABS is in the rear diff. Right on top is the plug, you can't miss the wire going to it. Unless somebody removed it, which would explain the lights. ;) The problem might be a bad wire, or a bad sensor. It's hard to say. You can get trouble codes from the truck, but it only displays 1 at a time. So you might spend a ton of money to fix something, and still have the light on. And again, and again. Most guys just unplug the box and be done with it.
If the pedal was spongy, I'd say to remove the valve. If it's good, leave well enough alone. Maybe somebody already removed the valve on dht's truck, that would explain the box being unplugged..
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Postby dieselhotrodder » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:38 pm

well when i unplugged the box with the heater blower motor on, the motor instantlu shut off... please SOMEONE ELSE TRY this so im not sounding like an ass.... cause the blower motor never worked till i pluged it in..


my truck has a new center section with the old tubes rreinstalled... so there is no sensor or wiring.
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Postby Richie O » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:45 pm

dieselhotrodder wrote:well when i unplugged the box with the heater blower motor on, the motor instantlu shut off... please SOMEONE ELSE TRY this so im not sounding like an ass.... cause the blower motor never worked till i pluged it in..


my truck has a new center section with the old tubes rreinstalled... so there is no sensor or wiring.


I unplugged my 93 last spring and the blower still works. Not sure why this is happening to ya.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby SNOOT » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:45 pm

Un hook your battery and hook it back up and let me know what happens..
1993 W350
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Postby Mark Nixon » Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:23 pm

Er, are you actually plugging in the blower RESISTANCE COILS, which are NEAR the ABS module?
Might be that you have a bad connction and bumped the blower resistor when you plugged in the ABS module?

There's only ONE plug on the ABS module.

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Postby Mark Nixon » Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:32 pm

Oh, yeah, to reset the ABS:
Verify that all components are indeed functioning, INCLUDING the vacuum valve assembly on the left fender.

There is a procedure to check whether it's good, which I don't recall.

Now, there is a black wire, sometimes hanging free, sometimes masking taped to the wiring, but near the ABS module, this is a reset wire, which you simply momentarily ground.
If all is well, this should clear the ABS/brake light in the message center area.

Otherwise I'd just yank the bulbs or unplug the module. :lol:

Mark.
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Postby PToombs » Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:30 pm

The blower resistor is in the top of the heater box. It's about 1 inch by 2.5, and held into the box with 2 screws. All you can see is the terminals and the screws.
The ABS black box is about 4" x 8" by 1-2 inches thick, this is mounted to the cab body just above the heater, directly behind the glovebox.
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Postby Mark Nixon » Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:22 pm

PToombs wrote:The blower resistor is in the top of the heater box.

Not in a '90, it's not.
It is located right below the dash, on the inner cowl, literally above and behind the ABS module.
It was moved from the plastic heater housing around 1984-'85.

Gotta' remember, I'm re-assembling a TOTALLY stripped bare club cab, it's hard NOT to notice these things. :lol:

See?
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Postby PToombs » Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:39 pm

Oh yeah! That's where mine is too! :oops: I'm thinking of the chevy I was looking at last week for a friend. :oops:
pete

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Postby BobS » Fri Oct 16, 2009 6:15 am

1992 ABS controller and rear heater resistor connection:
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Postby diesel freak01 » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:22 am

ok my question is the brake pedal is really spongy and the rear brakes do not appear to be working but i have no lights or codes or anything so do i need to just bypass that valve?
1993 d350 ctd drw 2wd auto
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Postby PToombs » Fri Oct 16, 2009 6:10 pm

Thanks Bob! Perfect timing and a great pic! 8)

DF, yup, just do a bypass and be careful when you stomp on the brakes. The truck will do something it hasn't done in years, STOP! ;)
pete

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