FIRST ELECTRICAL PROJECT

Does it have spark? And other questions...

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FIRST ELECTRICAL PROJECT

Postby BEARKILLER » Sun May 27, 2007 9:30 pm

I just ran another 30' of #10 wire down the frame of my truck to power an air-compressor.

:idea: As I was threading the wire along-side of several more of various gauges, serving various purposes, :idea: it just came to me-----a brainstorm!! :idea:

If, when I first got my truck, I had ran a 2, or 4, gauge cable, from the front to the rear, splicing in an isolated terminal stud at strategic points along the way, I could have used shorter, more efficient, runs of the smaller wires, simply by tapping power from the nearest HOT stud. :!:

As it is, I have always ran a wire of sufficient size to easily carry the load being added; but, usually, the gauge of wire is plenty big enough for the job it's doing, but not big enough to tap into and add another load.

I may as well run the big cable, and add the HOT access studs along the way; else, I will roll and tumble nights, doing it over and over in my head.

Anyway, copper is like dirt-cheap, and I have worlds of time on my hands. :roll:
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
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Postby Philip » Mon May 28, 2007 6:08 am

One thing on using a hot stud approach. Put it in a area that does not get much wheel spray or install it in a sealed box.

I have had to troubleshoot some battery drain problems from people using this style of power distrubition. Road debris and dirt building up causing a path to ground.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby PToombs » Mon May 28, 2007 3:42 pm

I don't know where copper is dirt cheap! :shock: The price has gone outta sight here. House wire has gone from $25 for a 250 ft box to $90. 3/4" K-copper for waterlines used to be $1 a foot 5 years ago, now it's $3. Scrap is bringing $3 a lb. Scumbags are stealing it out of vacant apartments, new houses being built, and even houses with people sleeping in them!
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby wannadiesel » Mon May 28, 2007 7:17 pm

I see they don't have sarcasm on your planet... :P
'93 D350 LE Club Cab dually, Getrag, 3.54 Pow-R-Lok with: DPS EDM's, HTT Stage IV/14wg, Con-FE, Snow Stage 2 water/meth, custom fuel pin, Walbro secondary fuel system.

Best dyno: 408/844
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Postby BEARKILLER » Mon May 28, 2007 8:36 pm

wannadiesel wrote:I see they don't have sarcasm on your planet... :P


Hmmm...Sarcasm....is that a new replacement for copper?? :?:
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
BEARKILLER
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby PToombs » Tue May 29, 2007 5:16 pm

I wish it was, think how much money I'd make! :D
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Not any cheaper now!!

Postby moab4x4 » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:29 pm

Copper hasn't been going down. :( I just installed #4 welding cable to the rear bumper for a receiver mounted winch. I am using the frame for the ground line as that cable is $$$.
I also ran a #10 and 2#12s for trailer apps.
I like the convenience of the power tap idea, but I live in salt and mud land and I would think corrosion would kill me.

One of my favorite mods was to remove the RAWL and use the harness for my trailer lights. It makes it look like the trailer lights and brake line are factory as they come from the factory harness. 8)

The other wires I ran were for Deep Cycle battery charging for a travel trailer, beefy backup lights, and one extra for later.
Ken
92 W350 LE Getrag, 3.54, 4"/2" lift,
HTT Stage II, POD's, 4", PDR cam, KDP, 3200 GSK, Pin ground, Keyed Valet
Pyro, Boost in Message Center, Isspro tach, Damplifier-ed entire cab! Dual Batts, Keyless Entry, LED's in dash
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Postby Philip » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:02 am

Moab make sure you drop a short ground cable from the engine to the frame. The battery main ground goes to the engine. The engine has rubber mounts. That frame ground will most likely go to ground threw the 10 gage wire from the battery to the raditor support.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby TWorline » Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:42 pm

I just ran a ground strap to my core support, have not had any troubles after that.
Tim Worline
1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby Philip » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:05 pm

Tim

Moad was talking about a winch. It will pull anywhere from 200 to 400 amps depending on the size of the winch and the load he throws at it. He better have a good ground from the engine to the frame or he can fry every ground in the truck. That many amps will find a ground. Give it a good one the first time.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
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Postby BEARKILLER » Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:51 am

Philip wrote: It will pull anywhere from 200 to 400 amps.
That many amps will find a ground.


Any sensitive devices should also be isolated from GROUND, and only be grounded via a FUSED ground wire.

C.B.s and stereos are prime candidates for damage from heavy current draws seeking a ground.
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
BEARKILLER
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:05 pm
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Postby Bogie » Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:51 am

I did this on my Crew Cab I have a plug in jumper cable system I wanted plugs fo at either end, so I ran a 2ga welding cable down the drivers side frame rail from the Aux battery. I got power post from west marine which are a 3/8" stud with a ring of #10 screws around it one under the back of the cab one at the rear I can power all I need.
1984 Dodge W350 Crew Cab 9"Lift 37" SSR's 360/NP435 D60's W4.10's

1966 Dart 273HP 4Speed 3.90's Radio/Heat Delete
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Bogie
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby BEARKILLER » Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:06 pm

Bogie wrote: I got power post from west marine which are a 3/8" stud with a ring of #10 screws around it



Those are nice. ;-)
MY TRUCK = 1985 FORD F-350 2wd, 89 1st.Gen.Cummins,Getrag 5-sp,Dana70 3:55

WIFE'S TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250 I/C, Auto

SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250 Getrag

#4 = 1991 D-350 LE Getrag
BEARKILLER
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:05 pm
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Postby GO OVRIT » Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:19 pm

I got a bulkhead post from Summit probably 10 years ago to clean up the wiring in my Jeep. I've been powering a winch, amps, a linear, and other stuff from it ever since. I keep a little dialectirc grease on it. As for chassis grounds...I learned that early on. I've had offroad lights find a ground through a manual choke cable. I've also replaced quit a few heater cores that got destroyed by the coolant being the grounding source.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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