runnin lights

[93bfarms]

im guessin that the pink wire that goes to the dimmer switch has the power to the runnin lights. for some reason that wire keeps gettin hot and bunrnin in two. what could be causein this. i thought it was because the pigtail was all burnt up and power was jumpin but i cut all wires put new ends on all with srink wrap. where does the pink wires come from? thanks yall... jayare

[93bfarms]

i guess i am the only one that has had this problem. do yall know where the pink wire comes from? thanks.. jayare

[Richie O]

If it helps, I have no idea. These trucks were wired by idiots as far as I am concerned.

[93bfarms]

we must not be alone. i believe its just the old outdated wires and the lack of size for the load...

[Tintacker]

schematic shows a pink wire w/red stripe going to fuse #4 (20 amp) on the fuse panel. Yes, it's for the running lights. Same wire also splits off to the horn relay.

Do you have extra running lights? Correct wattage bulbs? Pull a trailer with lights? Could be any of these, no doubt the electrical on these trucks the biggest pain in the arse.
They should have handed out schematics at the dealer when you bought one, "here you go sir, you're going to need this someday"

[PToombs]

"here you go sir, you're going to need this next month"

I fixed it for ya.

[93bfarms]

no extra light and all stock spec bulbs.the pigtail that plugs into the dimmer switch was all melted so i did away with it and put new ends on the wires and insulated them good. im becomin to believe its just the old wires cant keep up with it no more.lol idk. thanks jayare

[swank]

is your truck a dually?

[93bfarms]

yes it is. jayare

[gobigorgohome]

by chance is there maybe a worn spot in the wires where it is getting exrta voltage some how and overloading the wire? see what you can come up with hope it helps

[dpuckett]

Put the clearance/parking lights on a relay. That will take the load off the switch and off the wiring under the dash. It has solved this issue in 3 or 4 duallies I've had through the years.

Daniel

[RumbleFish]

swapping out incandesant bulbs for led's will also relieve some of the load off the switch. its pricey, but looks cool.

[Tintacker]

"here you go sir, you're going to need this next month"

I fixed it for ya.

Yep, that's more like it!

[COOTER]

Just Wondering If You Ever Figured Out What The Issue Was?...2 Days Ago I Replaced My Headlight Switch, Headlight Switch Connector, Ran A New Blk/Ylw From The Connector To The Harness, & A New Pnk/Rd Wire From The Connector To The Fuse Panel For Fuse #4 Due To Melting.

I Was Driving The Other Night, My Dash Lights Went Out, Followed By The Running Lights, Shortly After I Smelled The Smoke...Long Story Short, Typical Headlight Switch/Connector Failure. I Found Fuse #4 To Be Blown, Ran The Melted Pnk/Rd Wire Back To The Switch Connector. Replaced Both Components, Re-Wired Failed Wires, Installed New Fuse In #4, & As Soon As I Pull Out The Light Switch, POP! Goes #4.

It's Definitely A Short Issue, But No Sure Where? I Have Pinned & Ohmned Only To Fine The Blk/Ylw That Runs Every Single Light To Be Giving My Continuity (Beep Mode) On Everything I Touch. If I Probe The Blk/Ylw, Then Stick The Other Probe To Anything On The Fuse Panel, Even Hot Wires, It Beeps. The Previous Owner Installed A Toggle Switch For Rear Light Cut Off (So He Could Thank The Big Riggers For Letting Him Change Lanes Cuz He Was Sooo Cool) & In Doing So, Cut The Blk/Ylw In Half, & Wired In The Switch Between The 2 Pieces. I Can Remove The Toggle Switch Wires Completely, Having 2 Separate Pieces Of Blk/Ylw, Probe The 2, & It Still Beeps w/o Them Being Connected....

I Have Cut Harness Wrapping, Traced Wires, Jumped Wires, Replaced Wires, & Have A Pile Of Factory Tape In The Floor To Show For It, Only To Have #4 Still Pop When The Lights Are On For About 3 Seconds.

Any Help Would Greatly Be Appreciated, As Wiring Is My Achilles Heal, Just As It Seems To Have Been Dodge's.