cab rust, repairable?

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cab rust, repairable?

Postby gobigorgohome » Sat Mar 19, 2011 9:17 pm

the cab on my truck is rusting and now that the wet months are pretty much gone i wanna do somethin about it. just above the windshield on the pass side mainly is rust. it goes down to the lip a\bove the windshield and continues up about 3 inches max. is this something an average guy woth decent welding skills and some patients be able to repair this with somewhat ease or is it too much work. my main thing is deciding if its worth replacin the cab or fixin. i have friends in body work that could lend a hand if need be too. whats ur input on it guys?
91 4x4 with the 727, has the factory tach!
Boost gauge installed 27psi, new exhaust manifold here just not on yet. Pyro installed all glowshift units. 173 HP baseline before poor mans 4 inch dp
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby PToombs » Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:05 pm

If you grind it out you'll find the hole is twice as big. Maybe find a clean top and replace the whole roof. I gave away the top from my rusted out original cab, it was the only good piece left on it.
pete

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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby gobigorgohome » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:39 pm

I was curripus if it would be more wise to work on it an fix the bad spots or just put a new top on it. I could also go steal a top piece off a different rig an put it on mine but I am lookin for the cheapest easiest option an for me cheap is priority for me right now
91 4x4 with the 727, has the factory tach!
Boost gauge installed 27psi, new exhaust manifold here just not on yet. Pyro installed all glowshift units. 173 HP baseline before poor mans 4 inch dp
gobigorgohome
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 213
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:07 am
Location: kennewick WA
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby Richie O » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:45 pm

I see your on the left coast. I would find a cab and swap it out. You guys have a glut of rust free sheet metal out there.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby gobigorgohome » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:51 am

we will see what happens this summer when i start hunting for a parts trk for my 5 speed swap then ill go from there
91 4x4 with the 727, has the factory tach!
Boost gauge installed 27psi, new exhaust manifold here just not on yet. Pyro installed all glowshift units. 173 HP baseline before poor mans 4 inch dp
gobigorgohome
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 213
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:07 am
Location: kennewick WA
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby ccab85 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:50 pm

Why repair when you can replace for less? i have 2 cabs (along with a lot of other parts) and am only a few hours away. I dont want to advertise in this forum but if you are interested PM me here and I will share the details.
91.5 W350 345k stock
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby PToombs » Mon Mar 21, 2011 4:54 pm

ccab85 wrote: I dont want to advertise in this forum .


Why not, everybody else does.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby ccab85 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:11 pm

Too used to the Gestapo tactics on other sites. I dont mind bending a rule or two but I like it here and since I own multiple 1st gens i would like to stay. I will post my ad in Classifieds when I can get some pics of my parts. I guess if Swank wants to reprimand me though he could just drive across town and do so.
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby Richie O » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:35 pm

ccab85 wrote:Too used to the Gestapo tactics on other sites. I dont mind bending a rule or two but I like it here and since I own multiple 1st gens i would like to stay. I will post my ad in Classifieds when I can get some pics of my parts. I guess if Swank wants to reprimand me though he could just drive across town and do so.


This site is all about helping each other out. That also includes selling parts. Its fine to say what you have that will help him out. Of coarse you can place an add, but if the subject comes up here, no sweat. There are no paid vendors that can complain. All the other sites have that rule so they can make money with sponsors.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby dazedandconfused » Mon Mar 21, 2011 6:45 pm

I just scraped a cab with only a bit of rust on rockers. Not that it would have helped you being on other side of the country. Was sad to see it fed into the smasher.
Big Andy
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby gobigorgohome » Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:19 pm

something just crossed my mind about thinkin about replacin the cab. since i have the factory tach woudl i have to pull the dash and swap it or would i be better off to just dump the tacdh an buy a new one? or shopuld i just get the cab an swap tops?
91 4x4 with the 727, has the factory tach!
Boost gauge installed 27psi, new exhaust manifold here just not on yet. Pyro installed all glowshift units. 173 HP baseline before poor mans 4 inch dp
gobigorgohome
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 213
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:07 am
Location: kennewick WA
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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby draginmopars » Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:48 am

easy to swap
there is only 2 bolts and 4 nuts holding the dash,
many wire connectors
most inportant is the vin attached to the dash
Howard

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Re: cab rust, repairable?

Postby PToombs » Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:13 pm

If you want to fix it on the cheap, just grind it clean, put some rust killer stuff on it and pack it with bondo of some kind. Then save your money and watch for a cab. Doing a swap isn't too bad, it just takes a little time.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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