Lund visor install help

both inside and out

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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby PToombs » Sat May 12, 2012 5:58 pm

Or 100 foot of shoreline.
pete

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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby nolafishr » Sat Jun 23, 2012 2:18 am

I just installed a set on my 93 and used 3m double sided tape to hold mine in place, had to cut to fit and intalled them and rolled windows up and left it for a day to set, no problems with it. I was not going to drill any holes for screws in mine. It is the same tape they use on the in channel window visors and moulding also.
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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby Mark Nixon » Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:58 pm

KISS, is my motto. ;)

DO NOT use those idiotic nylon/steel threadsert things!
If you ever have to remove them and the bolt or insert has rusted, it WILL spin, trust my better (or worse) experience on this!
Dodge used them on the old bar style tow mirrors and without fail at least one will spin and ruin the day, not to mention make a real mess of the door in the end. :evil:

Bryan, the screws are 3/4" long X 1/4" and don't use a "deep" sheetmetal thread pitch, use more like a pointed style self tapper (not a drill-style), as that's what Lund used in their kits.
Seal it down with a non-acidic sealer, as silicone is acidic when uncured.
ONLY seal immediately around the screws, using sealer to help hold the part down is totally unnecessary and makes future removal, for whatever reason, much harder.

Mark.
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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby PToombs » Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:09 pm

I had a visor on my S 10, about twice a year I had to pop the covers and tighten the screws again. I used silicone as a sealer and screw holder. It worked great as a sealer. :lol:
pete

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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby RumbleFish » Sun Jul 01, 2012 6:38 pm

My dad thought he had to have one shortly after he bought 95 new. He ran the drill through the roof, into the headliner. I learned some new words that day!
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Re: Lund visor install help

Postby bmoeller » Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:03 pm

Mark Nixon wrote:
Bryan, the screws are 3/4" long X 1/4" and don't use a "deep" sheetmetal thread pitch, use more like a pointed style self tapper (not a drill-style), as that's what Lund used in their kits.
Seal it down with a non-acidic sealer, as silicone is acidic when uncured.


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