Leaky leaky leaks - windshield and door

[Diesel]

I have been hunting down leaks inside and think I've got it all figured out. I can see the cowl is cracked and I know the hood and fenders must come off to fix that. Driving yesterday I saw water coming down the a pillars from the windshield seal area as well as the seam sealer used to seal up the a pillar to the roof. I have no headliner or trim so I can see these leaks. So what's it going to take to seal? Windshield out and reseal with a new rubber or the same old rubber?

[dazedandconfused]

Well for starters you need to dig all of the old seam sealer out of the drip edge and reseal that. Everyone I've seen drip around the windshield has been rotted bad where the windshield seal goes. If you pull the windshield be ready to do some metal fab work. When I pulled mine their was a 6" section of the lip gone. I bought another cab it was so bad.

[Diesel]

Well for starters you need to dig all of the old seam sealer out of the drip edge and reseal that. Everyone I've seen drip around the windshield has been rotted bad where the windshield seal goes. If you pull the windshield be ready to do some metal fab work. When I pulled mine their was a 6" section of the lip gone. I bought another cab it was so bad.

The seal sealer that is on top of the roof was dug out and redone when I had the cab painted...the windshield was not pulled when we painted the cab...the cab on my truck is very rust free but now its time to see what will come out of that area between the seal and the cab I guess! Windshield is coming out!

[PToombs]

On the windshield, pull the zip strip and use urethane to seal between the gasket and cab. It's a bitch to get a decent amount in there across the top because of the drip edge. Then use a bead of silicone between the glass and gasket, and put the zip strip back in. Wipe off the silicone. Wait until the urethane dries then just cut it with a razor and peel off the excess. Don't try to clean it when it's wet because you'll just smear it all over everything.
I've BTDT with mine. I had a new window put in and the idiot that did it didn't urethane the body side, and I had leaks. I took it back 2 more times before they got it right. The guy that did it the last time had been in the business for a long time. He said even when the dodges were new in the 90's if you pulled a brand new window out you had to silicone it on install or it would leak. He got it sealed, and it's been good for 3-4 years. Now I have a leak someplace else, it runs out behind the heater box. I'm suspecting a cowl crack myself.

[Diesel]

Ptoombs- I'm a windshield noob. So the seal gets urethaned to the cab first then the windshield is put into it? That sounds backwards. I figured you would silicone the gasket to the windshield and then put a bead of urethane on the gasket and press the windshield into the cab? Maybe put some urethane on the cab before pushing in the windshield?

[PToombs]

The gasket is a connector between the cab and the glass. It's not like a chevy that you glue the cab and set the glass in, then put a pretty trim strip in the glue. The seal is shaped like the letter "H", the glass goes in the top of the H and the body goes in the bottom (when looking at the bottom of the window unit when installed). The zip strip goes in the middle of one side, like here >H. Urethane the groove in the gasket, then install the gasket, then the glass, silicone the window to gasket gap, then install the strip. You can cheat it and put the sealers in after if you don't want to remove the window, but it's harder to do the urethane and doesn't get in there as good.