Power Window Motor Test?

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Power Window Motor Test?

Postby wilkyflex » Fri Mar 25, 2016 5:32 pm

Does anyone know how to properly test an old window motor?

My driver's side window would stop working occasionally. I would bump the door with my arm and it would work again. This went on for a few years. I thought it was a short, then heard it might be a bad motor.

I finally got the motor and regulator out (not easy) and decided that before I buy, I should test what I have.
When I plug the motor in and turn on the switch it works fine, both ways. So far I have not experienced it stopping.

Then I read where you can test it electrically. The article said that if you get 12 volts when the motor is on, then the motor is good and the wiring or switch are suspect. And if you get 11 volts or less, then you know the motor is bad.
I got 11.78 volts without the motor turned on. Then when I turn it on, I get 11.36 volts.

So I'm still confused. Should I just get a new motor and try it?

Thanks
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Re: Power Window Motor Test?

Postby PToombs » Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:37 pm

If I had to guess, I'd say the motor is bad. It most likely has a bad spot that the brush stops on, (or the brushs are worn out) and when you bump the door it jumps and starts it moving. My moms car did this for almost a year before I put a motor in it, worked fine after that.

As for the test, if you have less than 12 volts running, then there is a bad switch or wire that isn't putting enough volts thru to run things. If the voltage is up it is most likely a bad motor as the supply is there.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Power Window Motor Test?

Postby wilkyflex » Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:19 pm

Hey, thanks for the tips. Yes I think it is the motor. But now I'm wondering because I do get less than 12 volts to the motor. So in that case, the switch is bad too? hummm, what to do????
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Re: Power Window Motor Test?

Postby PToombs » Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:27 pm

I'd do motor 1st, because of the way it is acting. The voltage may be low because of weak battery, grids on when you checked (it would be way lower than 11.8 IMO), bad connection in a plug, fuse, battery terminal, key switch getting bad, etc. It will still work at that 11.8 voltage, but just a little slower, and may not even be noticable.
pete

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Re: Power Window Motor Test?

Postby RumbleFish » Sun May 08, 2016 10:08 am

On my 91 I had a window motor act up. Turns out the connector wasn't making contact anymore. I hardwired it and it never gave me another problem.
I could've left it stock...but why?
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Re: Power Window Motor Test?

Postby b4autodark » Thu May 26, 2016 5:11 am

Same on my 91, bad connector.
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