Cab Swap Question!

both inside and out

Moderators: Greenleaf, BC847, Richie O

Cab Swap Question!

Postby PToombs » Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:53 pm

I have a cab from an'86 automatic, and I'm going to put it on my '92 standard trans truck. I know I'm supposed to swap the hump. Has anybody tried to leave the auto hump in? How much room is there between the auto floor and the standard trans?
I pulled my seats and was going to cut out the hump yesterday, and found I'll have to gut the cab, or at least remove the heater box, to do it. So I was looking and comparing the 2 cabs, and wondered if I can adjust the auto hump with a hammer? ;) :twisted:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!

Postby rbrettctd » Sun Jan 13, 2008 6:09 pm

I put a stick in my early 91 (727) auto. Supposedly a smaller hump. I cut the hump out to make it removeable, welded some strap on there and molded it to the floor pan and screwed it back in...it went back just like it came out and cleared the GTRG just fine.
Randy
1991 D-250 N/I CTD. POD's, , BHAF and unger custom intake /crossover, HX35/16, 4" exhaust to 6" tip, Custom ground pin. Isspro gauges on pillar. Now Getrag equipped, SB crap clutch (12") and 3.07 gears-ready to watch the mileage soar.
rbrettctd
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 343
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 4:00 pm

Postby dpuckett » Sun Jan 13, 2008 6:52 pm

It's a tight fit under there with the 5spd hump. I'd say take the old hump into the new cab.

GUess you could adjust it as needed with a hammer. How much time you got? I can gut an interior (floor) in under an hour now.

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
dpuckett
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 2196
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:33 pm
Location: Perryville MO
Top

Postby oldestof11 » Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:51 pm

Hammer? Be a man and get a sledge! :roll:

Really, torch out the auto hump. Now cut the manual hump a little bigger than said hump from other cab. Now put some hinges on it and bolt it to the floor. Now make the carpet or whatever you have on the floor have a cut out area that can be easily removed. Now when you go to fill'er up with oil, or just to check the gears after a missed shift :lol: , you can just pull it up and do whatever you want with out taking it outta the truck.

Clear as NY mud? I bet IL mud is a little cleaner, less rocks. ;)

Jon
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
User avatar
oldestof11
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 4147
Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:46 pm
Location: Northern Illinois
Top

Postby PToombs » Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:15 pm

I have the floor clean. When I looked at the front I saw the heater box is way down where I want to cut the floor out. I just hate doing things 3 times. I wanted to get the hump fitted, paint and sound proof the new cab, then pull the old one. I was going to put them side by side in the garage and just swap stuff over. I guess I'll pull the dash and the heater do it that way.

Thanks guys!
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby Philip » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:52 pm

Pete save yourself some clean up work. Take a 4.5" grinder and use a cutoff wheel to remove the hump. A torch job will require clean up. The cutoof whell method will need maybe 5 minutes to clean up after you get it out.

If you don't have a 4.5 grinder harbor frieght has them on sale pretty regular for $20. Use it till it breaks and tose it. :D
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
User avatar
Philip
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1954
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:50 am
Location: Indiana
Top

Postby PToombs » Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:06 pm

Philip, that's what I was going to use. I was going to borrow my buddys knibbler. He told me the tips were dull, and why don't I use a grinder? DUH! :oops: I 've been using it on everything else around here! :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby rbrettctd » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:36 pm

I started a hole with a drill bit and cut it out with a sawzall, clean cut....
Randy
1991 D-250 N/I CTD. POD's, , BHAF and unger custom intake /crossover, HX35/16, 4" exhaust to 6" tip, Custom ground pin. Isspro gauges on pillar. Now Getrag equipped, SB crap clutch (12") and 3.07 gears-ready to watch the mileage soar.
rbrettctd
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 343
Joined: Sun Jul 15, 2007 4:00 pm
Top

Postby PToombs » Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:59 pm

Randy, that's a good idea too. But I'm not going to buy a Sawzall just to cut out my floor! ;) :lol:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby cummins king » Wed Jan 16, 2008 6:01 pm

what about a resip saw you got one of them
93 4X4 auto
User avatar
cummins king
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1741
Joined: Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:35 pm
Location: oakville, ontario, canada
Top

Postby PToombs » Wed Jan 16, 2008 6:05 pm

Got a jigsaw, sucks though! The grinder will work good, I have thin (1/16) cutoff wheels for it. I've cut sheetmetal before. I just didn't think about it when I asked my buddy for the knibbler. I hope it warms up so I can get the dash out. I'm kinda stuck til I get the hump out. :dayum:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top

Postby Jeep-hauler » Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:24 am

If you have windows in the cab, make sure you cover them with cardboard or something that will prevent grinder sparks from hitting them. The small bits of hot metal will burn into the glass and ruin them.

-Jeremy
'51 Power Wagon VE Cummins project.
'92 W250 -Got it cheap, it runs, it's ugly, it's a parts truck
'93 W250 -tweaked pump, 4" exhaust, NV 4500HD 5-speed. Jeep tow rig, daily driver. Sold.
Jeep-hauler
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 80
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:26 pm
Location: Pacific North West
Top

Postby PToombs » Mon Jan 21, 2008 2:58 pm

Thanks Jeremy, I knew that, but didn't even think about it! :shock: I'd have been PO'd if I bunged up the windows! I'm replacing the front one anyways, it's all chipped up. Drive into the sun, can't see doo doo! :evil:
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
User avatar
PToombs
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 11367
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:13 pm
Location: Syracuse NY. Snow central!
Top


Return to Body

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests