Painting fiberglass dually fenders

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Painting fiberglass dually fenders

Postby bgilbert » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:16 pm

I'm thinking about learning how to do some bodywork, paint and maybe gathering more tools 8) . I'm wanting to know what it would take, as far as tools, supplies, materials etc to paint my fiberglass dually fenders (red in color) to white in color. Not looking for show truck quality, but I don't want to see red paint through the new white paint etc.

I've got a friend of a friend that would probly do these for me cheap, but I'm kinda thinking of expanding my abilities, skills whatnot etc. I'm good with about the rest of the truck but I'm no body man or painter, but would like to learn more. Ideas, comments?
Bill Gilbert
85 D350 crew with 90 6BT intercooled Getrag 3.07's
93 D350 single cab Getrag 3.54's.
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Postby dpuckett » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:51 pm

Comment- after you get your fenders done real well, I'll drop the Green Goober off at your place for a week or so. NO PARTS SWAPPING!!! ;-)

Daniel
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
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Postby PToombs » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:49 pm

Practice on DP's! :lol:
Bill, remember, paint is easy, it's the bodywork that has to be perfect. If you use coarse sand paper, it will show scratches, If you don't blend in the bondo spots, it will show. Practice on some regular fenders or something first. ;)
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Postby oldcool90 » Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:57 pm

I recall when it wasnt about looks just go fast stuff. :shock: I guess ive been hanging around Bill too long,but his truck's are alot cleaner :lol: :lol:
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Postby bgilbert » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:41 pm

Bondo?? Ah c'mon now all I want is for the red paint to not show through! Heck I bet spray paint would work!
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Postby sdstriper » Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:01 pm

Random orbital sander, not a DA either, too easy to damage stuff, and a light grit paper 220 or 320. Whichever does not load up to bad and/or leave heavy marking in the paint. If the bodywork is good, meaning it requires none, all you should have to do is take the shine off the old paint, take the shiny glaze off and prime and paint with a 1K system or have Napa put in a rattle can... Your not set-up to do a 2K, the 2k systems have the isocyanates, baddass shiot you need all the safety gear for.
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Postby dpuckett » Tue Jul 01, 2008 10:17 am

So what you guys are saying is any idiot can shoot the paint; it's the prep work that determines the quality? Wish I'd known that 2 years ago. I cant give the Green Goober away right now.

sdstriper- what are you talking about with 1K, 2K, etc? I know the "K" stand for thousand, likely.....

DP
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Postby RumbleFish » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:23 pm

well if youre giving it away, ill be there this weekend....
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Postby GO OVRIT » Tue Jul 01, 2008 7:24 pm

I wouldn't say any idiot can shoot a good paint job. I don't tell anybody I'm an idiot, but I've sprayed a couple that I wouldn't claim. The prep work has to be right and is usually time consuming, but the spraying takes some skill to. White hides bad work the best. As long as you don't have any pearl or metal flake you can always wet sand afterwards with some 1500-2000 grit and then buff it.
92 W250 ext cab 518, big sticks, a-1000, PDR HX40, 4" exhaust w/aeroturbine, pump tweaked, K&N filter Tims Cooler tubes and 3" i/c, gauges
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Postby dpuckett » Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:21 am

I'd heard black was the easiest to make look good. Local shop in Poplar Bluff made Mom'd look pretty good, and that's what he said.

DP
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
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Postby RumbleFish » Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:43 am

I've always heard the opposite...black was hardest to paint, and white was easiest. I do know that I can't paint with either unless its out of a rattle can.
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Postby PToombs » Tue Jul 08, 2008 5:59 pm

I just wanna tell you guys that any idiot can paint! :D I just did my cab, and it looks ok. :lol:

Black shows the imperfections the worst, silver metallic is the hardest to match. The silver shade has to be perfect, and the metallic has to flow the right way, or it shows up as a different shade too.
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Postby sdstriper » Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:56 pm

dpuckett wrote:
sdstriper- what are you talking about with 1K, 2K, etc? I know the "K" stand for thousand, likely.....

DP


Daniel, here's a link for the basics. Component is what it stands for, guess the paint fumes got to whoever thought up the "K"...

http://autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml
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