AC doors?
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AC doors?
by willhill06@live.com » Thu May 14, 2009 12:48 pm
How can i manually switch my AC doors, on my 92 d350? I guess the vacuum lines are bad, cant switch on dash.
92 D350, Denny T's fuel pin, rally (brass) clutch, homemade intake, strait 4"
- willhill06@live.com
- fuel pin?
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by Begle1 » Thu May 14, 2009 1:11 pm
Oh man, I wish I kept track of how I did it. I had it all figured out when I put my vacuum switch on solenoid valves. Let's see what I can remember...
There are two diaphragms behind the glove box; each one has vacuum ports on each side. One sends air to either the floor/ defog vents or the dash vents, the other draws either fresh air or recirculates air.
There is one other diaphragm down by the driver's right foot; that diaphragm only has one vacuum port and shuts off the defog vent.
The other vacuum-actuator is the heater core switch on the heater line in the engine compartment.
It isn't the easiest system to bypass, at least I couldn't figure out an easy way to do it. I ended up using five solenoids; I could do a write up on how I did it, I wouldn't really recommend it unless you're like me and have a boatload of little solenoid valves around though.
If you're just interested in putting it in "MAX A/C" mode until the end of summer, you can take the glove box out, disconnect the vacuum hoses from the two diaphragms, push the recirc door open, push the mode door to the "dash vents" position, and optionally tie-wrap the heater core shut-off valve closed. The manual slider is what directs air around the heater core, though, so provided that the A/C system is working, that's the only thing that's going to control air temperature. The other doors just determine flow.
There are two diaphragms behind the glove box; each one has vacuum ports on each side. One sends air to either the floor/ defog vents or the dash vents, the other draws either fresh air or recirculates air.
There is one other diaphragm down by the driver's right foot; that diaphragm only has one vacuum port and shuts off the defog vent.
The other vacuum-actuator is the heater core switch on the heater line in the engine compartment.
It isn't the easiest system to bypass, at least I couldn't figure out an easy way to do it. I ended up using five solenoids; I could do a write up on how I did it, I wouldn't really recommend it unless you're like me and have a boatload of little solenoid valves around though.
If you're just interested in putting it in "MAX A/C" mode until the end of summer, you can take the glove box out, disconnect the vacuum hoses from the two diaphragms, push the recirc door open, push the mode door to the "dash vents" position, and optionally tie-wrap the heater core shut-off valve closed. The manual slider is what directs air around the heater core, though, so provided that the A/C system is working, that's the only thing that's going to control air temperature. The other doors just determine flow.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Begle1 - 14mm rotor
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