Big Red Pile 91 W350 Build Thread

[RCCUMMINS89]

The "marine 370, smoke a lot" comes from people using them in I/c motors and p pump motors.

They will run pretty clean in your truck, in fact....they are an excellent injector in a non I/c motor.

However........they are big enough that you should be able to create egt issues. I mean...... you seem to be getting the same amount of fuel as a maxed out I/c pump with stock I/c injectors.

[CumminsPower59]

Update:

I wasn't satisfied with the 205 pump. Went through the 114 pump again, and threw it on...but not before dropping the key down into the timing gearcase I was able to peel the cover back juuuuust enough to get a look inside...there it was, sitting on a "land" right underneath the camshaft gear...I used a telescoping magnet, and fished it out. So, in my frustration, I took a small hammer and punch and gently "peened" the keyway on the pump shaft, so the key sould sit real tight on the shaft, which it did and I had no longer had to do a balancing act to keep the key from falling out of the kayway during installation. Did the ususal pump 'n prime, and it fired to life. Didn't miss, but the governor wasn't right, the rpm's would hang, and when the engine speed would come down, it would go lower than idle and kick back up to speed. I then turned the fuel screw back two more turns and it runs fantastic!!! Idle is perfect (and quiet..for me) and I bumped the timing 1/8" and it runs out well. Not too much smoke, but it is moving some fuel now...got it up to 36psi and 1300 degrees. Has a nice, light gray haze at full tilt. I will tinker with it a little more, see if I can get it just below the point where it starts to act up.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Excellent to hear things are making positive progress.

[PToombs]

Ike, I usually use a center punch and tap the key on each side. It leaves a small dimple and I tap it into the shaft and it's good. I dropped mine too when I just had the cover off a couple weeks ago. I stuck a magnet in between the gears in case I dropped it again.

[CumminsPower59]

Bringing this one back up...

Been running the pile a little bit, but not without some issues...

First off, coolant leakage. I cannot get this thing sealed, just about every joint leaks, upper and lower radiator hoses at the radiator ends, and the heater core hoses, also the bypass that I put in place of the auto trans heat exchanger...everything leaks. I put a new thermostat in a while back, and since then, I've popped the heater core and developed the leaks. Also, the gauge will fluctuate between the bottom 1/3rd and the top 1/3rd of the gauge. I used a OE Cummins thermostat, I was thinking of putting the old one back in. The only reason I replaced it was when I had the head off, I figured it would be a good time to replace it. It even developed a leak mid-tube on the hard line for the heater core that runs from next to the thermostat housing back to the hot water control valve...I have a piece of hose in it's place currently. It doesn't leak horribly, but just enough to drip when the block heater is plugged in, and just enough to keep running into the cab when driving down the road...good thing I have just a rubber mat on the floor

Second, It has been burning more oil lately, as it has a fair blue haze at times. Last night on the way into work, the windshield washer system froze up on me, so for the last two and a half hours of the night I let it sit and idle to get some heat under the hood to thaw out the lines. Well, when I got ready to leave I noticed a 9" diameter oil puddle under the right side of the front of the truck...oil was running out of the V-band joint at the downpipe...and I seen about a silver dollar sized oil stain and small bubbling around the pyrometer thermocouple. Yay. I don't know if the extended idle time was causing some oil to get past the rings, or some of the valve stems aren't sealing so good anymore or what the deal is. It has always used "some" oil, even when I had the truck years ago...but I put a good three quarts worth of oil in it this morning and it has about 1500 miles on it since the last oil change.

Thoughts?

[cmann250]

What was your idle rpm? At 1500-1600 rpm, I'd not hesitate to let mine idle for 2 hours. At a normal idle in the bitter cold, not so much...

[CumminsPower59]

Ummm.....700


I thought about going out and bracing the throttle open to about 1200 or so, but got busy and forgot about it...

[PToombs]

That idle is way too low! You need to keep it up for better combustion or it will wash down the cylinder walls.

[CumminsPower59]

I guess I could bump it up some...800? 900? Might have to grab the 'ol pry bar to wedge under the pedal to bring the rpm's up when its idiling...

[ellis93]

I idle at 1g. AC on and it'll drop to 900

[1STGENFARMBOY]

OK I need to turn my idle up then, I'm probly in the 700-800 range, and with the ac on and in gear 600....

no wonder I have such a haze at idle.

[CumminsPower59]

I just don't like it to be idiling way up there when I come to a light or something, so I'll probably leave it and just use the prybar to raise the idle for warm up and sitting purposes...

[cmann250]

OK I need to turn my idle up then, I'm probly in the 700-800 range, and with the ac on and in gear 600....

no wonder I have such a haze at idle.

I don't know about you, but if I idled at 1000 rpm, I'd have to have both feet on the brakes or pop it in neutral at a stop light. We automatic boys can't get away with the stuff the manual boys can.

I need to get off my can and make a factory high idle set up. I currently have the Alligator Diesel design and it's not able to do the fine adjustments I'd like to have.

[CumminsPower59]

I am gonna get a cable type control eventually, the kind on some equipment at work that has a twist type for fine adjustments...

[PToombs]

Pretty sure it's 800 for the manuals and 700 in drive with the AC on for autos.