I keep forgetting to update this thread.
I still only hit 37# of boost but I had an issue with a lope. Found out nearly all my injector hold down nuts were not tight enough. I torqued them to 45ft lbs and thought they would be good with new copper washers. Now thinking about it, my torque wrench probably needs a calibration. It is over 10 years old and I paid around $120 for it back then. Click type.
So I just tightened them until they stopped leaking. Then go for a drive to see 2 were still leaking. Once I got in the higher RPM's, it would leak. Tight them down.
Now run beautifully.
I am dealing with a suction side air leak. If the nose of the truck is high, lots of popping and smoke until it idles a bit. It lopes until you load the engine and it is fine then. Nose down, it hits and gives a pop then idles smoothly. Undid and reapplied the fittings at the lift pump, nothing. So now I am thinking that there is something wrong in the fuel tank module. If the tank is more than 1/2 full, it does it less so than when it less than 1/2.
I have had an issue with some popping while going around corners with the rear end. I thought it was the clutches in the LSD going out. Until yesterday. I went to back into the drive and it wouldn't go. Give it some juice and it slowly starts going. Then got slowly faster until I touched the brakes again and it stopped on a dime. So I pulled the rear drums. Passenger side came out fine. Drivers side I spent an hour trying to get the drum off the shoes. For some reason, the arm the parking brake connects to jammed.
So I pulled both sides apart and replaced EVERYTHING but the cylinders, drums, and parking brake cables. I got them loosened up and used PB Blaster Lubricant. It works wonderfully. I don't know if it is a silicone but it is thick and slippery.
One note. This is the 2nd 1993 D250 ext cab with the auto and heavy trans cooler/towing package that had regular cylinders but 3" shoes. Is this a normal thing? The other one was the candy cane truck I had 5 years ago. That one I know was a 1 owner before me with every record. The brakes were never mentioned and they looked like it when I changed them. I remember having to replace the drums too because the shoes were well past the friction material.
Now for the good stuff.
I have been trying to figure out how to do my suspension to:
Hook
Ride nice
Tow
I am going to do a GM F-body traction bar design. Pull all but the main leaf and put a airbag above it. This should help on many fronts. Reason I am doing this is I can adjust ride height so accommodate the difference in my street tires and my slicks. I don't want too visible traction bars. The traditional ones hang too low IMHO for a 2wd. The airbag is adjustable so I can tow my buddy to the pulls and not be too rough for daily driving.
For reference, a F-body (90s camaro and firebird) suspension. Bolts near the diff and goes to the trans crossmember. I will bolt mine to the carrier-bearing driveshaft crossmember. If I have to, I will brace it and make it stronger.