Jon's build thread

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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby PToombs » Thu Nov 06, 2014 6:05 pm

So why not buy the line for a 2nd gen? Are they a lot more expensive?

I reread it, you only got the pump, right? ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby DMan1198 » Thu Nov 06, 2014 6:23 pm

The pump comes with the line for a 2nd gen (and an adapter fitting so you have the right size for a first gen)
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Fri Nov 07, 2014 6:45 pm

I don't know. All I know is I had to massage it a bit to get it to line up.

Winter diesel is here. Blech. Lost 2 mpg.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby DMan1198 » Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:18 pm

Got that here too 2 tanks ago. Same mileage loss. I'm Hoping to pick back up a teeny bit with a new fuel filter. This ones been in since May, so it's got quite a few miles on it
Ducati- professional nap taker, and thread derailer extraordinaire
Brownie: 80 dodge heavy half. Ghost cummins under the hood, and some sinister plans
The Roo Hunter: 93 w250, lifted, 2 whistle machines, and a bunch of other go fast goodies, uhh..... not there yet
Jaeger: 12 ram 3500. Lifted, exhausted, and fed an excessive quantity of air
The Huntress: 02 Jetta TDI. No muffler, egr, horsepower
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Wed Dec 31, 2014 4:25 pm

So after talking with a few different people and timelines, I decided to send Chris Luttrell, owner of Ducky Fuel Injection, my core injectors and my 370 p-pump injectors. Boy was that a trip to get them out.

Number 5+6 injectors were nearly rusted in. So bad the threads on the lines and injectors were bad. Number 6 was bad enough where the hold down nut turned the injector in the bore. I used a map gas torch, vise, and a 15mm wrench to get it all apart.

Week and 2 days after they were sent out, I got my injectors back with 370 tips. That is when I found out 5+6 lines were bad. So they were down another 5 days.

Fired it up for the first time today. Runs SMOOTH and quiet with no lope. Hazes just as much as my old stock injectors so I'd say the old ones were toast. Tomorrow I'll button up the EGT gauge install and take it out for a spin. Then it's time to swap upper control arms.

If the trans is fine, I'll turn down power some and work on the suspension. It's getting bagged and dropped. Also have the front crank seal to replace and I think I'll jump the pump a tooth. We will see how the 370s like more timing first.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:49 pm

From the 2015 BS thread:

I finally got the front end rebuilt and 370s installed. Hory Shet! I have a boost leak somewhere but I hit 37#s on the HE351 like yesterday and my pyro is a RPM gauge. 1st and most of 2nd from a standstill is useless. Stock auto is holding up strong. Just need to do the 3800 rpm spring.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby cmann250 » Thu Jan 22, 2015 4:27 pm

Get a sturdy transmission! I gained 100 ft-lbs with a good transmission.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby dazedandconfused » Thu Jan 22, 2015 6:03 pm

You have any interest in your truck?
1983 Dodge D150 that has been repowered with a 93 Cummins/518 running gear AKA The Ugly Duck! I would much rather build them then buy them.[
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby DMan1198 » Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:10 pm

A paraphrase from the bs thread. After talking with the misses it's not getting sold, and he's saving up for another pump and giggle gas
Ducati- professional nap taker, and thread derailer extraordinaire
Brownie: 80 dodge heavy half. Ghost cummins under the hood, and some sinister plans
The Roo Hunter: 93 w250, lifted, 2 whistle machines, and a bunch of other go fast goodies, uhh..... not there yet
Jaeger: 12 ram 3500. Lifted, exhausted, and fed an excessive quantity of air
The Huntress: 02 Jetta TDI. No muffler, egr, horsepower
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Fri Jan 23, 2015 4:58 am

dazedandconfused wrote:You have any interest in your truck?

Yes. :roll: I think you know how it goes. "Willing to meet 18 hours in the middle with no guarantee and all I'm going to offer is $1k."
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby ellis93 » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:23 am

oldestof11 wrote:From the 2015 BS thread:

I finally got the front end rebuilt and 370s installed. Hory Shet! I have a boost leak somewhere but I hit 37#s on the HE351 like yesterday and my pyro is a RPM gauge. 1st and most of 2nd from a standstill is useless. Stock auto is holding up strong. Just need to do the 3800 rpm spring.

Update?
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:49 pm

I keep forgetting to update this thread.

I still only hit 37# of boost but I had an issue with a lope. Found out nearly all my injector hold down nuts were not tight enough. I torqued them to 45ft lbs and thought they would be good with new copper washers. Now thinking about it, my torque wrench probably needs a calibration. It is over 10 years old and I paid around $120 for it back then. Click type.

So I just tightened them until they stopped leaking. Then go for a drive to see 2 were still leaking. Once I got in the higher RPM's, it would leak. Tight them down.

Now run beautifully.


I am dealing with a suction side air leak. If the nose of the truck is high, lots of popping and smoke until it idles a bit. It lopes until you load the engine and it is fine then. Nose down, it hits and gives a pop then idles smoothly. Undid and reapplied the fittings at the lift pump, nothing. So now I am thinking that there is something wrong in the fuel tank module. If the tank is more than 1/2 full, it does it less so than when it less than 1/2.


I have had an issue with some popping while going around corners with the rear end. I thought it was the clutches in the LSD going out. Until yesterday. I went to back into the drive and it wouldn't go. Give it some juice and it slowly starts going. Then got slowly faster until I touched the brakes again and it stopped on a dime. So I pulled the rear drums. Passenger side came out fine. Drivers side I spent an hour trying to get the drum off the shoes. For some reason, the arm the parking brake connects to jammed.

So I pulled both sides apart and replaced EVERYTHING but the cylinders, drums, and parking brake cables. I got them loosened up and used PB Blaster Lubricant. It works wonderfully. I don't know if it is a silicone but it is thick and slippery.

One note. This is the 2nd 1993 D250 ext cab with the auto and heavy trans cooler/towing package that had regular cylinders but 3" shoes. Is this a normal thing? The other one was the candy cane truck I had 5 years ago. That one I know was a 1 owner before me with every record. The brakes were never mentioned and they looked like it when I changed them. I remember having to replace the drums too because the shoes were well past the friction material.

Now for the good stuff.

I have been trying to figure out how to do my suspension to:

Hook
Ride nice
Tow

I am going to do a GM F-body traction bar design. Pull all but the main leaf and put a airbag above it. This should help on many fronts. Reason I am doing this is I can adjust ride height so accommodate the difference in my street tires and my slicks. I don't want too visible traction bars. The traditional ones hang too low IMHO for a 2wd. The airbag is adjustable so I can tow my buddy to the pulls and not be too rough for daily driving.

For reference, a F-body (90s camaro and firebird) suspension. Bolts near the diff and goes to the trans crossmember. I will bolt mine to the carrier-bearing driveshaft crossmember. If I have to, I will brace it and make it stronger.

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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Sun May 17, 2015 2:10 pm

Many things coming in the next couple weeks!

I got rid of the lope but not an occasional hard start. Never messed with it while trying to get the truck lowered and ready for a 1400 mile round trip. Did 264hp on a low reading inertia dyno. Compared to other trucks, about 15-20% low. No CF.

So this last week I went through checking for fuel leaks. Nothing. When I remembered where I hid it, I grabbed my alligator clip wire. Attached it to the KSB and viola! No more hard start. No more smoking out the neighborhood. So, I plan on adding some timing next weekend when I tear into the front timing cover and fix the crank seal leak.

Question: I have 370's. I know I need to add at least as much timing as the KSB adds. Should I do a tooth jump or should I just crank it to the head? I was to do a tooth but I think that might be too much base timing.

I also ordered some wheels for my slicks. Now to go racing!
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby oldestof11 » Sat Jun 13, 2015 3:36 pm

Me and Schrowang lined up
Image

And my fastest slip of the day. It got hotter and more humid as the day went. Then I started having problems with the tire unloading at the 60'. Launched at 10-11psi, running 30psi out of the HE351
Image

I am ecstatic. Only other thing I did besides slapping on the tires and relieving all the extra weight was use Schrowang's spring clamps and clamping the springs behind the rearend. Seemed to prevent excessive axle wrap.

Also, I am building a set of driveshaft loops. I didn't know (and it is my fault) that slicks meant an automatic driveshaft loop requirement. I planned on it but this is now getting priority.
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Re: Jon's build thread

Postby fatty » Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:41 pm

That's a pretty good time. What do you have for pump mods?
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