1996 12 valve

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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby PToombs » Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:13 pm

The 2nd gen stuff will bolt right on the 1st gen timing case. That accessory hole has a standard mounting pattern. Want a hydraulic pump to go on it? Compressor? I've seen both mounted on there.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Fri Nov 14, 2014 5:21 pm

368984 kms, changed oil today, 5w40 synthetic. (Putting this here in case I forget the mileage) checked the trans and rear end, still good. Gonna do trans, rearend, and engine oil at 380k. Changed fuel filter and cleaned pre screen 368k. Found a 16 dollar block heater cord today, and it is working again! Really glad I didn't have to pop that heater element out. That along with my oil pan heater and two new batteries recently, I shouldn't have any cold start issues this winter. 370K changed rear end oil to 75-90 synthetic with mopar additive. Dec16, 371k, rear cooper A/TW 285/75/16.
http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz4/ ... nt=001.jpg Changed oil 376250 kms. Changed oil and set valves at .008/.018, 391500 kms.
Last edited by Remps on Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:08 pm, edited 3 times in total.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:21 pm

Well I'll be, I managed to post a working link to my photobucket!
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Douglas » Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:21 am

Just a note, adding ethylene glycol to hot motor oil is a recipe for turning the combination into a gooey solid.
cheers,
Douglas
1990 D250, NV5600, 16cm housing and PAC brake, Powr-Lok'd 3.07's, HX35...IC next

1991 D250, 727 and 16cm H1C.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:06 pm

Yup, it looked pretty gross when it happened to mine. Also a nice cappuccino froth out the dipstick tube. It's still running pretty decent considering #6 is scratched, managed 23.6 mpg averaging 70 mph a couple weeks ago. Was down to around 15 mpg last night, turns out the rubber IP feed line had cracked under the clamp. Good 8-9 gallons of rustproofing, entire frame from the now shiny trans rearward is diesel soaked, as were the back tires, wheels, rearend, tailgate, etc etc. Cut a bit off the line and reclamped, and gave the body a good scrubbing with mr clean lol.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Sat Dec 24, 2016 3:32 am

What's y'alls opinions on 2nd gen 2wd vs 4wd front suspension durability? (Minus U joints, diff, front axles, front driveshaft, etc) Was doing research on front suspension upgrades, and learned that, apparently, dodge put straight axle front ends on 2wd 3500 cab & chassis trucks. Basically a 4wd front end, minus a differential and axles. I'm getting a little tired of humperdinking down the winter road rough spots at 20 kph, trying to keep balljoints from shooting through the fenders, when I'm getting passed by new trucks doing 80-90 kph. Canadian tire quoted me 250-300$ per balljoint for moog, which is nuts. I'm thinking of finding a 2nd gen 4x4 v10 or cummins truck with missing engine and trans, cutting off the whole front frame/suspension, and splice it to the 2wd frame. After cutting out the diff, replacing it with a piece of tubing, and pulling the axles. At least there is aftermarket support for the 4x4 suspension.. Any opinions welcome.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Sun Jan 01, 2017 1:22 am

Put new upper balljoints in it a couple days ago, old ones were about ready to pull out of their sockets. Bought $40 napa sealed balljoints and their press kit, which barely fit, but got the job done. All the negative camber had toasted the inner treads, but the W250 lent his front wheels to the 96 now that he is standing up straight. Finally bought myself a No 6 vice, big enough to change U joints, have wanted one for years. My rear U joint was dried right out, replaced with greasable moog 330. Pretty sure the rancho 5k's I put on the front 50k miles ago are completely toast, as are the junk monroes on the rear. Going to try a set of kyb monomax shocks on it next, but first I'm going to replace a floppy idler arm and do the lower balljoints and replace the coil spring rubbers, which I assume are mashed, lowering the ride height and making the truck bottom out easier. Hopefully find poly replacements for those. Will hopefully clear 265's on the front at that point, which should hopefully ride a little smoother than 245's, being able to run a little less pressure. If I can't get a season out of this setup without having to replace everything, it's getting a custom kingpin straight axle and leaf springs and enough lift to clear 35" tires. The Cooper AT/W 12 month winter tires I put on the rear are completely bald in the center, outer tread about 1/4". 54000 kms on them, not really that impressed. They were good in the snow when new, not so good now. I'd say there is no such thing as a 12 month winter tire yet. Actually, they did last 12 months, so in a way they're right. :lol:
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Rob_O » Sun Jan 01, 2017 8:13 am

I found this thread while I was looking around for new aftermarket control arms possibly cheaper than rebuilding the factory pieces. It might have info useful to you https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/240087-93-2WD-Any-way-to-raise-the-front-end-up. The aluminum spring spacers mentioned are available from eBay or Amazon but the only real fix for hard working 2wd trucks seems to be a straight axle as you discussed
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 02, 2017 3:11 pm

Back in the 90's I drove a 94 2 wheel peel ton truck for lumber yard. It had the solid axle. As far as I know it was original ball joints and it had around 100k on it. I do remember they put hub assemblies in it when I was there,,,, what a surprise. It had an auto, but had the transfer case shifter in it for a transmission disconnect / pto option. It disconnected the driveshaft so you could run the pto to dump the flat bed. What a abortion that was. It made me look twice when I first saw it. It had the solid axle and a transfer case shifter,,,, yet the axle was empty. :lol: I was like what the #@#@ is this thing. :mrgreen:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Tue Jan 03, 2017 11:28 pm

Rob, interesting link for some 1st gen upgrades. Richie, that definitely confirms that they put some straight axles in 2wd 2nd gens. I think I am just going to patch up the 96 front end as cheap as possible, and put 500 lbs of sandbags in the back of the bed to smooth it out some. I think a kingpin straight axle is as tough (for reasonable money) as it is going to get. Balljoints are for cars lol.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby DodgeFreak » Wed Jan 04, 2017 6:20 pm

all of the straight axle 2wd 2nd gens I seen were cab and chassis versions.
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Wed Jan 04, 2017 10:31 pm

Picked up a couple pipe wrenches today and gave it a wheel alignment. Right tire was toed out about 1.5 turns on the tierod. Drives nearly straight and steering wheel centered again. Picked up a idler arm and pitman puller today. Crappy tire wanted 220 for an idler arm, found one for 60 at a wholesale auto parts place. The left wheel bearing has been making a little noise on right hand benders, and the left caliper is rattling around in its housing, so I'm probably looking at replacing the bearings and housing (maybe housing comes with bearings) and the brake caliper to fix that. Hopefully I can find a good deal on those parts too.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Remps
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Sun Jan 08, 2017 10:22 pm

Turns out I bought the wrong idler arm, I need the heavy duty one with larger bolt holes. Put 396 lbs of sandbags in the back of the bed, helped smooth it out quite a bit on the crappy stuff. I even aired it out a little bit and it didn't bottom out, feels more balanced. Of course the battery hold down promptly snapped off its plastic mount and corroded cable end finally let go. Glad I have fss delete, or it woulda killed engine and power steering. Front suspension feels less labored. I think I want a 400 lb rear bumper now. And a straight axle.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Remps
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Fri Jan 20, 2017 2:19 am

Pulled the sandbags and measured wheelwell height, adding them drops the rear about 5/8", brings up the front about 3/8". Finally changed the oil, 428ish K. Added some quality US made tarpstraps as battery hold downs, and replaced the negative battery post. Speaking of tarpstraps, NEVER buy "tune it" brand tarpstraps from Chanadian Tire. Dry rotted useless crap. I think I may just drill out the bolt holes on the new idler arm, as its plenty beefy in that area, provided the taper fits on the other end. Replaced left front wheel bearings way too late, inner was toasted to bits. Inner race was seized on the spindle, had to cut a bunch of notches in it so a pipe wrench would bite, came off easily then. New inner race has a slight amount of play in the hub, leaving me maxed out on bearing preload with 1/16" play. So now I am looking at replacing the spindle, hub/rotor and bearings again in the near future. At least the right bender howl is gone. Used cheap bearings for now.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Remps
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Re: 1996 12 valve

Postby Remps » Wed Mar 15, 2017 11:36 pm

Changed oil to synthetic 5w40 434K, new 245 rear tires off the w250, idler arm, hub/rotor, bearings, and caliper changed. Replaced smashed to nothing Rancho 5K bottom bushings with bicycle inner tube. Shocks work better now that they are actually doing something the first 1.5" of suspension travel. :lol: New caliper fit much tighter in the worn bracket, but was still able to install it with 3 layers of bike tube, which made a very tight fit. NAPA $45 sealed balljoints already have 1/16" play after only 6000 kms, and one of them squeaks. Junk. Found greasable ac delco $40 balljoints to try next. Drives much nicer without the floppy wheel, lazy shocks, and floppy idler, and finally peace and quiet from that clattering caliper.
'90 D250 R/C,727,IC,6x.009's,1/8" bump,fuel psi,straight pipe w/5" stack.
'90 W250 R/C,47rh,K@N,HX35,1/8" bump,2nd gen IC,boost,egt,trans temp.3.07's.
'96 2500 S/C L/B,2wd,NV5600,3.54 L/S,cai,egt,pacbrake,mbrp exhaust,10 plate.
Bring back the Bank of Canada, PRE- 1974.
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Remps
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