Preformance motor biuld

[cummins king]

okay im thinking of biulding a motor, i have no idea where to start
im looking for a motor that can hold a reliable 900hp+
i have a good block, but is there any mods you can do to make it stronger
what tip of cam sould i use, i know you where talking about somthing KTA?
should i go with a bullited crank, or is stock strong enough
what tip of pistons and rods
lifters?
and am i missing anything else

thanks
CK
Joel

[KTA]

A reliable 900+hp??? What do you consider reliable, like if it lasts a year??
In my opinion about 2hp per cubic inch is the max for reliable power. I don't know of any 5.9's over 800rwhp I would consider reliable.

[cummins king]

i hear alot of stuff from schied is really reliable for over 1000hp, 900hp is over kill, but i want a motor that i fool aroud once and awhile, but able to drive it with out being worryed about blowin a cam or somthing

[KTA]

The only Scheid street motor I know of is John Porterfields, and he usually dynos around 700-800rwhp most places. Sure you can build a "reliable" 1000+hp motor to go down the track 60 times a year, but that is a lot diffrent from a daily driver. If Schied has any 1000hp street trucks with 30,000miles that havent had to have the motor worked on I would like to know who.

[cummins king]

i understand but get diesel power for that last few mounths and see what there pumping out, theres one guy making 900 relable, and theres a guy making 1500 and its a daily, dont know how long it will last but....
your not using the 900hp all the time, i just want a motor that can be a daily but also be able to have some fun with once any awhile, what ever a ve can pump, so it would be more like 750hp

[seeker1056]

MAgazine hype and follow the leader sheeet!

I been at this game for aver 35 years and nuthin has changed

Those mags dont ever begin to tell the whole storey - how many tens of thousands spent in r&d before they got that "1000 hp motor" or even if the engine was dynoed or just guesstimated. Do tell where the price tag of that "dailey driver" is at. Startin with a 20,000 or so truck, spend mayeb 10-15000 on the motor, then 5 on a trans etc etc etc for a bare minimum of 45-50,000. Then make it reasonably pretty so it can be in a mag - more money!!

"How many plugs for the advertisers, and mags, and suppliers." Dont ever forget that thats why the mags are there - to sell stuff people dont need nor likely ever use, with the hype - so they can sat lookit me - man they got it down pat!!!

And what is everyday to one is DEFINITELY not everyday for another.

Even here in the diesel realm there isnt a day goes buy where someone (not everyone) isnt speakin hearsayese (no real experience) from what they heard or read somewhere

And last but not least - what works for one individual doesnt always work for the next.

I am watchin the posts here - where ya gonna use 4-6000 rpm on a dailey, or 100psi fuel pressure, or 70-100 psi boost pressure etc etc

easy to say you want it on hand - but you ever try to drive something that is virtually on the edge all the time, and that doesnt mean just the motor - tires, chassis, driveline etc etc etc

A few like KtA are gettin away with it but ask him how much it cost in man hours, and money to get there in the first place, or how often the backup truck hadda go down the road on Monday morning cuz the r&d experiment went poof ;o) And ask him and the others who are up there in the hp chase how long thier motors were kept in that state of tune?

I been there with more than a few vehicles and its dangerous and expensive on the street - most notable my 545ci powered ranger shortbox - try drivin 2700 lbs of fury in the snow and rain for three years (main driver) and you get the idea, especially if something comes up and you have to make emergency moves.

Did i learn my lesson - you bet - I became a truckpuller where its safe to run, and usually you can get someone else to pay for your fun - 12 years and never spent a nickel of my own money buildin nice trux ;o) (spent $60,000+ in sponsors in that time - it adds up quick)

What these magazines should be sayin is you need two or three vehicles and a wallet if ya wanna play the real game of 900-1000 hp monsters

Guess thats why you never see our dailey driver kinda junk in them glossy pix lol



thats my rant for the day on magazines and hearsayese

[cummins king]

i understand the hipe of mags and the once and atime means pulling, dragging on track, dynoing

noting street

[KTA]

I have about $10000 in Old yellow including the price of the truck, but if I had to pay for all the labor involved with it, and the engineering making the parts for it it would probably be well over $30000 I am sure. IT is not my daily driver. I have several backup vehicles because even at 600+rwhp its not totally reliable. It does have all its original long block parts though with 100,000miles over 400rwp.

[cummins king]

thats pretty good 100,000miles with over 400hp, i would call that reliable, anyways back to the motor biuld, what type of crank should i go with or is stock good enough

[ford69557ci]

seems like the stock crank with some balancing and knife edging hols up great.

[KTA]

Stock crank is fine, just get it balanced. At the kind of RPM's these motors turn I doubt knife edging is worth it. I suspect at most you might get 5hp from that.

[cummins king]

but at least it would help with oil,

as for pistons and rods, you think a set of 370 maries or a set of airis pistons

[SChandler]

For rods I would think the stockers would be fine since they have been used in motors over 1000hp without problems (from my reading of the Comp Diesel forum). And I think that the Cummins low comp. teflon coated pistons mentioned in a previous thread here would be the ticket for relative low cost and value/performance.

[ford69557ci]

seems like most of the big power guys say they have the best luck with factory crank rods and cummins marine pistons most of them like to use the factory cummins bearings to. aftermarket stuff like main studs arp rod bolts a good balancer and a good balancing are all things that will keep it together longer. I dont see why a 900hp daily driver couldnt be done? I drive my race fuel burnin larger turbo s10 all the time and its strictly race but its got tags so it sees alot on the street and i never have problems with it. I dont go around with the go pedal mashed all of the time either. I dont care if you have 1000hp or 400hp you drive all out all the time somethins goin to let go eventually look at my truck lol.