How to adapt HX35 style turbo

[gharger]

Hey all, I have a '89 Non / IC with the stock baby H1C wanting to adapt a HX35 style 14 housed H1C that I got from Tankage to. The turbo exhaust size is the same but cold side in and outlets are about an inch larger od.
How are you non I/C guys doing this? I would like to somehow run this turbo thru the stock non I/C air horn to see how it performs before fabing a new one.



'89 D350 Autometer gauges, tweeked pump, 28 psi / 1350 egt 727 auto, transgo, and, converter.

[dpuckett]

I shaved about an inch off my intake horn, clocked the impellar housing around, and put a layer of silicone turbo hose on the crossover. I then slipped a slightly bigger hose (1/4" bigger ID than the stock crossover) over the outlet flange of the impellar housing, and onto the first silicone layer. Held 40psi+ for a couple years before I sold it.

I would recommend getting an elbow and intake horn from an IC'd truck, along with a grid heater block (remove one grid heater or another), and run a 2-1/2" tube between the two. It would be easier and would flow more air. Plus, if you upgrade to an intercooler, you will have the 2 hardest to find parts. Or parts that no one seems to want to part with.

Daniel

[dvst8r]

The one big thing I wasn't expecting in swapping to an hx35 was going from a 14mmX1.5 oil feed line on the H1C to a 12mmX1.5mm on the HX35. I swapped it late in the evening and was lucky to have found a brass reducer fitting at home, that was I was able to run a tap in one end and a die in the other and covert it to metric, and with some tread sealant managed to make it work.

I also cut off the round portion of the intake crossover tube, and then welded on a 2.5" piece of aluminum I had lying around, put some silicone and t-bolt clamps between them good to go.

Exhaust was too far forward for the hx35, but I was tired and needed to goto work in the morning so I just had a buddy go under the truck and pull on the exhaust and I pushed from the top and moved it back the 2" we needed and then just bolted it up.

On an aside: An hx35w off of a piece of equipment does not have a silencer ring, and the waste gate actuator holder assembly that bolts to the turbo, is right in the oil drain location, so for right now I just have mine wired shut, but need to find a waste gate holder (not sure of the correct term) from a truck, as even with no fuel screw mods, just the pin rotated, and the washer shaved, and the star wheel adjusted, I can hit 37psi. Which is about where I would like to keep it gated at. This is with a 12cm housing.

[gharger]

Thanks guys for the quick replies.

Greg

[DTanklage]

did you get that thing on your truck? curious how much diff over baby h1c. i wouldnt expect a bunch of diff but then again i never tried it so i dont know. to be honest, didnt even know your truck came with a smaller charger than the '92 did. hope it works good for you. if with your mods you see more than 35 psi i think you are going to have to go even bigger greg. let us know how it goes

don

[gharger]

If I get more than 35 I'll need a bigger gauge. LOL No I haven't installed it yet. Got my tight converter in though. Brake works now.
Seems as though someone else moused with the valve body separator plate though. I didn't get the results I wanted with the shift kit.

Greg

[gharger]

If I get more than 35 I'll need a bigger gauge. LOL No I haven't installed it yet. Got my tight converter in though. Brake works now.
Seems as though someone else moused with the valve body separator plate though. I didn't get the results I wanted with the shift kit.

Greg

[DTanklage]

Brake works now.

bet it does - that thing wa$ brand new, maybe 1000 miles

you can try a bigger gauge for now but if push that turbo to 40 psi its gonna come apart...

just get it fueling to about 35 psi and start saving for the big stuff

that is what i would do if i were you

that and keep your eyes open for a used 62/71-14