Just a little more . . . . .

How to make it go fast

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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby ellis93 » Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:11 pm

BC847 wrote:
PToombs wrote:Looking good Dave! I'll be down to pick it up this weekend! :jumpsmile:
Why dry nitrogen instead of air? to keep moisture out?


Just a heads-up, the core-charge is a mofo, BIG-time. Seriously!! ;)

Yup, To keep things dry (and I have it available and, . . the danged air-compressor finally blew off to the big tank in the sky. I'm having a hard time justifying $1200 ~ 1500 for a new one).

Seems to me you’re constantly working on something,seems plenty of reason to spend it to me lol. A life without compressed air would surely suck for you. Cordless tools can only do so much in the end.
93 D250 ,5 speed,4.11s,k&n autometer tach pyro trans boost guages,GDS 60mm h1c 14cm,honed 5x10,hplp/reg,1/8 timing,M+H M2 fuel pin, tims cooler tubz
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Tue Nov 19, 2019 7:15 pm

ellis93 wrote:Seems to me you’re constantly working on something,seems plenty of reason to spend it to me lol. A life without compressed air would surely suck for you. Cordless tools can only do so much in the end.


And there's the rub. :?

While I failed to post a pic of the trans fluid pan as removed, suffice it to say: There was little brass fines in the pan, little iron filings on the magnet (as in very small quantities). There was an appreciable layer of tar like black fines that seemed to be well packed, like a very strong metal-safe cleaner struggled to remove it with a stiff brush. Screw it, as cool as it is outside, I fired up the pressure-washer with the strong/narrow tip and let it eat.

Dried, painted and installed with a new rubber coated steel gasket. Uniformly torqued to 165in/lbs over the coarse of two or more passes of three settings (50, 100, 165).

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I reckon I'll get started on the transmission cross/frame thingy tomorrow.
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Thu Nov 21, 2019 8:31 pm

I've moved on to the transmission's rear mount cross-member.

From what I've gathered, most folks doing such an install move the entire cross-member/transmission mount assembly rearward 1.5" ~ 3".

I can't do that. I've got 5" exhaust sthi all up close and personal with the cross-member's diagonal on the passenger's side. In the following pic, the transmission's oil-pan is to the right. The front drive-shaft is on the bottom. You're looking at the 5" mess changing over to triple-lock stainless flex to get over and around that diagonal brace right there. NO room to move anything.

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On the driver's side, I've got the transmission's fluid-to-fluid heat exchanger with a supplemental trans fluid filter all mounted between the big cross-member and the skid-pan's rear cross-member.

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A little further back, I've got a fan assisted transmission fluid cooler mounted between that skid-pan rear cross-member and another, upper cross-member just in front of the fuel tank.

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With all that. I can't move that big cross-member back without having to do a lot of . . . .other stuff.


So, I did this . . . .

The stock/OEM frame cross-member/rear transmission mount for my truck looks like this.(The left side in the image faces the rear of the truck).

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The bolt-holes in the cross-member for the resilient-rubber rear trans mount, . . . I moved those holes 1.125" rearward.

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The lower/rear of the transfer=case is now gonna be in the same space the skid-plate cross-member is. I expect I'll have to whoop out my paring-knife.

Speaking of the paring-knife, While I had the trans mount stuff apart, I cut I bet three or four pounds of useless iron from that plate between the rubber isolators and the actual transmission mount thing.

Image
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
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Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby spencerdiesel » Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:51 pm

It thrills me to see you maintain such a massive amount of dedication to your first gen and this forum BC, it’s looking awesome! The clear defined pics and write ups are phenomenal, hats off.
1992 W250, 5 speed, 4.10, Ext. cab Ext. bed, 12.5k winch, 75 gal. fuel tank

H1C/18

Fuel: THD 6x10 VCO sticks, THD 12 psi piston pump, THD fuel pin, 366 spring, fuel screw 2 turns in, timing to the head/ >1/4”
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Sat Nov 23, 2019 7:47 pm

spencerdiesel wrote:It thrills me to see you maintain such a massive amount of dedication to your first gen and this forum BC, it’s looking awesome! The clear defined pics and write ups are phenomenal, hats off.

Thanks for the kind words.

Frankly. it's been paying off a lot lately with the latest mods. Many times I've found myself wondering how I did some mod a while back and how's it gonna impact this trans deal. Just find the thread about it and read. :D
David

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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Sat Nov 23, 2019 8:30 pm

Been "On Call" all week and that will continue till Monday. With that in mind, I don't dare start some big project at the moment. It's raining outside and too cool for a T-shirt. So, let's Dick with the engine/transmission adapter.

I started with using a tap to chase all the bolt-hole threads. Then I set the new 2nd Gen starter in place.

It's immediately apparent that Dodge changed the clocking of the starter going from the 1st Gen to the 2nd Gen. I've confirmed I got the right starter doing research about the thing. One fella commented about a 1st Gen swap to be ready to bend a driver's frame-flange a little to stop the thing from rattling against it. I read somewhere else were a fella was doing a 47RH swap into . . . something and was wondering if he could use a 1st Gen starter he had. Another said no as the 2nd Gen was a little longer and clocked differently compared to the 1st Gen starter.

Well chit. Naturally I can't do that as I've got a bunch of fuel and transmission hoses running through that space.

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So, I re-clocked the thing. I had to drill and tap a new bolt-hole in the engine/transmission adapter.

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It just so happened to fall right at a rib of the adapter.

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Now, the new 2nd Gen starter falls much more into the space the OEM 1st Gen starter was in.

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That new starter mounting bolt-hole was just off the milled surface the starter's suppose to be against but, it easily holds the factory spec torque of 32ft/lbs.

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The mounting bolt engages well in the threads. In hind-site, I suppose I could have drilled shallower but, I figured I needed a little more depth to accommodate those first four thread dies of the tap that taper to start the tap.

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OK.

When it came to installing the 46RH torque-converter bolts, I've always just stuck a wrench in that space at the bottom of the trans bell-housing.

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I can no longer do that as that access to the bolts is no longer there. The converter moved deeper in the engine/trans adapter.

Well, I reckon I could use the stock/OEM converter bolt access-port in the engine/trans adapter right?

Hell no, not on my heap. I've got the custom engine oil-filter relocation bracket passing in front of that access-port.

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Crap!

Perhaps I can cut a hole just down, and in the flat of that triangle space ('93adater shown for reference). That would give me relatively straight access to the converter bolts without needing 5 3/8" socket-wrench swivels.

Hmmm . . . .

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We'll see, huh?

Image
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
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Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Sun Nov 24, 2019 6:24 pm

Today, I ciphered where the new bolt access port needs to be and cut a hole.

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That location came at the expense of a web in the casting between two engine mount bolt points. Dang it!

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Before mounting the thing, I chased all the engine block bolt holes. While I was there, I looked hard at that camshaft bore plug. It and the smaller freeze-plug next to it present as being corrosion free. At least on the exterior anyway. I got a replacement cam bore plug thinking if it looked to be in distress, I could replace it while I had everything in front of it out of the way. Still, if I replaced it, and I ultimately somehow failed at having the new plug being oil leak free, it would be a damned mess.

I left well enough alone.

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Alrighty then. I got the new transmission/engine adapter installed. The bolts are at 30ft/lbs with blue Locktite. The starter location fits just fine with seemingly ample room around it. I did have to ding the stupid 5" exhaust down-pipe about a quarter-inch at that 2:30 bell-housing bolt hole though. Dang it. That's the kind of chit one has to accept if everything on the heap is custom crap!
To add insult to injury, now that the adapter is in place, it appears there would have been workable access, albeit quite restricted, at the OEM converter bolt access port. Dang it!

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Next, I'm replacing the crank-shaft's rear seal. With the disassembly for this project, it was found to have been drooling appreciably although I suspect less than parallel cylinder walls has a big effect on seal integrity with big boost on my heap. Here, I'm pulling the old seal out with a self tapping screw and a hammer. Like pulling a nail.

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With having wiped clean all the seal surfaces, then oiling the crank-shaft and interior surface of the seal, I used a fancy seal install tool I got a while back. It assures the new seal is square to the crank-shaft and is installed at the correct depth. Quick and easy.

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NICE!

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To end the day (it's getting dark outside), I installed the new billet flex-plate with new ARP bolts, torqued to 120ft/lbs with blue Locktite.
(Of special note: I've had an engine barring tool for some years now. I've never used it because there was an HT3B in the way. The tool came in quite handy today holding the flex-plate steady while I pulled the bolts up). Kewl!

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I'm hoping the drive-shaft guys will call early this coming week. They had to order some of the parts to fix the front drive-shaft's telescoping joint thingy.

It's getting close to hanging a new transmission time.
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Mon Nov 25, 2019 3:05 pm

Picked up the driveshafts today.

The front driveshaft is 1.125" longer. Has new telescoping-joint. A rebuilt CV-joint. All universal joints are non-serviceable Spicer units.
The rear driveshaft is 1.125" shorter and has the Spicer non-serviceable universal-joints.

Image
David

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Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Mon Nov 25, 2019 7:20 pm

Crap.

They got the rear driveshaft wrong.

As shown in the image above: The transfer-case connects to the short shaft on the left of the rear driveshaft assembly.
The transfer-case as well as the transmission is moving rearward 1.125".

That means the short shaft must be shortened. NOT the long shaft.

THEY SHORTENED THE LONG SHAFT.

The way they've done it requires the carrier-bearing assembly to move back.

I made it very clear which was to be shortened to the point that, the guy taking my order marked the short shaft specifically for cutting!

Dang it!

Gotta take it back.
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Fri Nov 29, 2019 3:58 pm

- Returned the rear drive-shaft for correction.
- Painted some of the big assemblies.
- Started sorting out the CompuShift.

Image
David

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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby PToombs » Sat Nov 30, 2019 12:13 pm

What's that CompuShift? Controller for the trans? I thought it would still be hydraulically controlled.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Sat Nov 30, 2019 10:41 pm

PToombs wrote:What's that CompuShift? Controller for the trans? I thought it would still be hydraulically controlled.


It automates OD and converter lock-up just like an OEM setup essentially, based on your settings. A Bluetooth interface makes it easy to alter your settings as well as update the controller's software. I can still use the dash and gear-shift lever's enable/disable switch if I'm RTFM right.

I like the fact it allows part-throttle variance. Pressure switches can't completely. I'll most likely add an override circuit for the converter.

https://www.hgmelectronics.com/compushi ... -chrysler/

- The 3-speed section is still hydraulically controlled by the valve-body.
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
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Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby PToombs » Sun Dec 01, 2019 4:20 pm

Cool! Thanks for the link. That takes a lot of guesswork out of trying to tune a trans. I have a new ride with a 518 in it and a potentiometer instead of a TPS. I'm sorta thinking about a 47RH swap in the future for the lock up. We'll see!
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Sun Dec 01, 2019 7:01 pm

I helped my Son hang the thing this afternoon.

Image
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
12.67 @ 103.35
Your basic farm truck ;)
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Re: Just a little more . . . . .

Postby BC847 » Wed Dec 04, 2019 5:30 pm

Still slowly moving forward albeit one step at a time . . .

- Got the converter bolted to the flex-plate. 35ft/lbs with blue Locktite.
- Got all the cross-member bolts torqued to 60ft/lbs.
- Got all the trans mount bolts "adjusted*" and torqued. *Had to shorten those two bolts that moved toward the back of the truck. They were trying to occupy some of the space the bottom of the cross-member was occupying.

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The transfer-case linkage appears to fit correctly with no mods required.

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The transmission's gear-shift linkage on the other hand, isn't so cut and dry. Either folks who've done shut a swap don't talk much about it or I've just plain missed such in my research.

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Knowing that I'm dicking with not only the gear-shift linkage, but the TV-cable too. I'd rather not try something that might require modifying the cable so, that narrows things down in my head. Here's the gear-shift torque-shaft assembly.

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I figure if I move the torque-shaft's frame bracket bolt-holes forward (to the right in this image) 1.125" will be the only thing needed to make it all work. I "think" tweaking the front shift-rod will keep it out of the firewall. We'll see, huh? I'd love to simply drill two new bolt holes in the truck's frame but the inner-fender mess is in the way never mind getting a drill in there and punching 1/4" or so steel.

Image
David

1993 12mm VE Fueled W250 CC, Green
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Your basic farm truck ;)
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