1stGen.org

by **T.winegar** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:23 pm

yep, me and you did the same thing. it'll cost you a pretty penny to get that fixed. at least yours started and ran... i turned my truck over a million times trying to get it to start. bled the lines, pulled the pump. etc. my fulcrum lever was cracked completely off. :mad:

by **SicNick** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:32 pm

Nice, I like how I dont recall seeing a warning about that in the instructions that are "SOOO EASY" haha.

Well how much did it cost you to fix, did you just buy the part and replace it yourself, what exactly is the part called?

by **T.winegar** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:58 pm

well, i know the part is called the 'fulcrum lever'. it costs about 450 to $500 to replace from the supplier that the injection shop will go through. thank goodness i had a guy on here to help me out!!! cumminsking sold me one for a lot cheaper than that!! and, the part is $500 dollars on its own. i did a rebuild when i had it replaced, and the whole mess cost me $518. maybe just the replacment will cost a lot less.

i dunno. i would try to find a friend on this site to get a lever, rather than have the shop get the brand new one.

by **KTA** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:16 pm

I am certain in the instructions I wrote that were up on DTR for a long time that I specifically stated to back the fuel screw out before removing the pump top. Another word to the wise never use bolts to pull something together. If you can't push it together with your hand somthing generally isn't right.

by **sdstriper** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:48 pm

SicNick wrote:Nice, I like how I dont recall seeing a warning about that in the instructions that are "SOOO EASY" haha.

Well how much did it cost you to fix, did you just buy the part and replace it yourself, what exactly is the part called?

In post #75 of The official start of my swap thread... over on 4btswaps I asked you if you followed a How-To. This is why! I later eluded to you not breaking anything if you followed the directions... You did however! Sorry to hear that now... But on the bright side, you have figured it out. And when you get that fixed your going to enjoy it thoroughly...

by **SicNick** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:49 pm

T.winegar wrote:well, i know the part is called the 'fulcrum lever'. it costs about 450 to $500 to replace from the supplier that the injection shop will go through. thank goodness i had a guy on here to help me out!!! cumminsking sold me one for a lot cheaper than that!! and, the part is $500 dollars on its own. i did a rebuild when i had it replaced, and the whole mess cost me $518. maybe just the replacment will cost a lot less.

i dunno. i would try to find a friend on this site to get a lever, rather than have the shop get the brand new one.

Holy crap I guess its time for me to start Making some friends... :shock:

by **T.winegar** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:30 pm

i'm not sure if i should be offering him, but try cumminsking. he had 4 when i got mine from him.

by **cummins king** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:57 pm

ill see what i have on monday

Joel

by **SicNick** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:22 pm

cummins king wrote:ill see what i have on monday

Joel

youre the man! I really appreciate any help :lol:

by **JQmile** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:42 am

I think for $500, you could probably find a new IP. Heck, or even a p-pump.

by **SicNick** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:15 am

well I started looking at rebuilt IPs last night, I didnt see one cheaper that $695, but I drove out to CA for spring break, and then found this problem. Now I have 7 days to make it right

by **SicNick** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:08 pm

so it looks like no matter what, I'll be pulling the IP tomorrow AM.

Any pointers, I dont want to F anything else up

As mentioned above, I've pulled IPs off of 6.2 GMs and 7.3 IDI fords in the past.

Im trying to only pull the oil tube off if possible, anything else would be a huge challenge with the limited clearence in front of the motor in my K30

Thanks

Jason, I can provide steak and beer (of your choice)for you and/or friends if you'd like to roll up to Ventura County

by **SicNick** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:18 pm

Well, we re-shaped the arm, put it all back together and WOW, that was it, she's a runner now. I actually have to go back and turn the fuel down some, as I can already hit 1,000 degrees on the pyrometer in one quick blast down the street, and that's here at sea level.

I will be buying a new IP before summer but for now it looks like Ill be able to make it back to school

by **PToombs** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:25 pm

Well, you musta had a busy afternoon! Glad you got it running ok. Maybe get an arm and a seal kit and redo it when you get a chance. If the truck runs good there's no reason to rebuild it.

by **JQmile** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:11 pm

Good job man, worry when your pyro hits 1500 :lol:

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cant get her to run right

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