Charge-Air Plumbing Restraint

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Charge-Air Plumbing Restraint

Postby BC847 » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:18 pm

Image

Yo main, other'nigh pulup to th'lite, stg,
Go gone, WAHH WAHH WAHH . . . dagum yo BOOM SHHHEEWWOOOO! , main!






Yeah, did that again the other night at the track.

BOOM! :shock:


Another charge-air boot blown off. To date I reckon I've had one blow off maybe five times now. Been lucky every one that no real damage was done.


So the other day I was at the annual Mopars/NADM at The Rock and was peeking under Jeff Garmon's hood. I noticed he had some tabs welded to the charge-air plumbing, right there on either side of the silicone boots. There was a single strip of aluminum bridging the two tabs thus locking the two pipes together. That way the charge-air pressure (boost) can't blow the two pipes apart.

Neat! 8)


I've historically depended on the silicone boots having a good grip on the pipes. Further, I've depended on the pipes having a decent hump for the boots to get a grip on. And then there's the dagum band-clamps. Constant-pressure (those with the springs) or not. I've had to torque the snot out of them for it all to stay put.

I figure the torque twisting up the engine thus pulling on stuff ain't helping. :x




OK, so thinking about that Garmon mess, and thinking I've differing plumbing metals and lack a TIG, and thinking all I've got are some rivets and some aluminum strap-stock, . . .. .

I did this . . . .




Take some 1" x 1/8" aluminum strap and bend it around the chuck end of a 5/16" drill bit in the vice. Make it so the inside of the slot is about 1/2" deep . . . .

Image



- Using a hammer and an anvil, radius the tabs to fit the charge-air pipe in question, drill four holes for some aluminum rivets (drive pins secured with red Lock-Tight) . . . .
- Some "Thread-All" rod with the aviation type lock-nuts . .. ..

Image



Installed on the inside radius of any flexing and install boots/plumbing as usual. Then suck-up the slack in the threaded rod for what appears to be a decent restraint. And cheap too. ;)

Making the slot for the threaded rod in the strap a little big allows some movement in the installed assembly.



I failed to take pichers while making the stuff, work with me. :roll:

Here's where the charge-air comes into the intercooler . . .

Image



Here's the bottom of the restraint at the secondary's outlet horn . .

Image
Last edited by BC847 on Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
David

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Postby gear jammer 91" » Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:40 pm

Looks good :thumleft: I would be kinda concerned about the rivets loosening up and causing an air leak after a while though.
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Postby IowaCummins » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:50 am

looks like an awesome idea. one thing you could do to make em last is try and find a buddy with a tig and get them welded up. i think those rirets might come loose and you would start hearing soem new whistles! lol or maybe some metal to metal epoxy? that might work
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Postby RSWORDS » Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:19 am

David That is a AWESOME idea
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Postby fergavs » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:29 am

These are what I have seen the big boost crowd use around here:

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/p ... ts_id=1074

I feel they are a waste of money and would fab my own but you get the idea. Good work.
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Postby Oddfire » Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:07 am

Ooooooo, aaaaaaaaaa! 8)
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Postby PToombs » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:04 pm

I'd be more worried about the metal stud in the rivet loosening up and falling in. You know where it'll go! :shock:
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Postby bgilbert » Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:12 am

You need a mig my friend. :lol:
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Postby BC847 » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:05 am

bgilbert wrote:You need a mig my friend. :lol:

A MIG would be nice but I want a TIG >drool<.

The rivet mandrels are captive. I went the extra step of adding a drop of red Lock-Tite in the rivet's pin hole after they were set.

There won't be problems of the rivets worrying the holes and such. :)
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