toggle switch

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toggle switch

Postby stock91w350 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:30 pm

My 1991 w350 has a toggle switch that turns on the pump, and stops the engine when switched off . why would i have this? and how can i make it normal? i want to be able to just use the key to start it and shutt it off
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:51 pm

Are you sure it's not just an ignition-on/ ignition-off toggle switch? An electric fuel pump would be slightly odd considering that mechanical pumps were stock and pretty reliable, and just shutting off an electric fuel pump wouldn't be that reliable of a shutdown on these trucks. Or perhaps it's a switch that manually toggles the shut-down solenoid on the injection pump; that would be an easy Presidential Solution if any of the original solenoid wires went south. If that was the case I might consider keeping it as an anti-theft precaution, or for the ability to crank the engine without starting it.

Chances are that the orginal ignition switch started acting up and it was replaced with a toggle. The ignition switch isn't in the column, it's down behind the gauges in a sheetmetal tunnel, connected to the key tumbler with pushrods on the left side of the column.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby stock91w350 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:01 pm

Begle1 wrote:Are you sure it's not just an ignition-on/ ignition-off toggle switch? An electric fuel pump would be slightly odd considering that mechanical pumps were stock and pretty reliable, and just shutting off an electric fuel pump wouldn't be that reliable of a shutdown on these trucks. Or perhaps it's a switch that manually toggles the shut-down solenoid on the injection pump; that would be an easy Presidential Solution if any of the original solenoid wires went south. If that was the case I might consider keeping it as an anti-theft precaution, or for the ability to crank the engine without starting it.

Chances are that the orginal ignition switch started acting up and it was replaced with a toggle. The ignition switch isn't in the column, it's down behind the gauges in a sheetmetal tunnel, connected to the key tumbler with pushrods on the left side of the column.
the toggle wire runs to the shutdown solenoid and a black wire meets it there also. when i switch on the toggle the wait to start light comes on but the heater motor wont work till i turn the key ahead so im not sure what exactly it runs and what the key ignition runs, it be easyer if i just had it like factory
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Postby stock91w350 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:04 pm

also if i turn the key without turning the toggle on first nothing happens at all
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:10 pm

Your toggle sounds like its back feeding to the ignition switch. You may have a bad fuse link on the fender next to the battery. Sounds like your switch is not powered the way it is meant to be.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby stock91w350 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:17 pm

Richie O wrote:Your toggle sounds like its back feeding to the ignition switch. You may have a bad fuse link on the fender next to the battery. Sounds like your switch is not powered the way it is meant to be.
thanks! richie i live pretty close to u i think, do you know anyone that would work on my truck to fix these small issues and maybe ajust my pump and put my 3200 spring in etc... at $100 a hour the diesel place in bangor is hard to afford
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:24 pm

stock91d350 wrote:
Richie O wrote:Your toggle sounds like its back feeding to the ignition switch. You may have a bad fuse link on the fender next to the battery. Sounds like your switch is not powered the way it is meant to be.
thanks! richie i live pretty close to u i think, do you know anyone that would work on my truck to fix these small issues and maybe ajust my pump and put my 3200 spring in etc... at $100 a hour the diesel place in bangor is hard to afford


I don't know of another diesel shop, sorry. Make sure who ever does work on your pump or does adjustments knows what they are doing. They could cost you a grand real quick if they frig up something. I have never done a 3200 spring so Im not sure how bad it actually is. Any repair shop could do the wire repair. I can't remember, do you have a egt gauge yet? If not thats real important.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby stock91w350 » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:28 pm

Richie O wrote:
stock91d350 wrote:
Richie O wrote:Your toggle sounds like its back feeding to the ignition switch. You may have a bad fuse link on the fender next to the battery. Sounds like your switch is not powered the way it is meant to be.
thanks! richie i live pretty close to u i think, do you know anyone that would work on my truck to fix these small issues and maybe ajust my pump and put my 3200 spring in etc... at $100 a hour the diesel place in bangor is hard to afford


I don't know of another diesel shop, sorry. Make sure who ever does work on your pump or does adjustments knows what they are doing. They could cost you a grand real quick if they frig up something. I have never done a 3200 spring so Im not sure how bad it actually is. Any repair shop could do the wire repair. I can't remember, do you have a egt gauge yet? If not thats real important.
thanks yes i have the guage but not hooked up yet, your truck must have a 3200 in it rite?
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Postby Richie O » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:34 pm

Both of mine are stock springs.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:19 pm

Richie Stock spring in the 89! what would a 3200 spring do for your drag times, that truck seems quick for what it is anyway. ;)
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Postby Richie O » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:27 pm

1STGENFARMBOY wrote:Richie Stock spring in the 89! what would a 3200 spring do for your drag times, that truck seems quick for what it is anyway. ;)


It does go nice. But it should. I have a good i/c, nice cooler style tubes, 4 inch exhaust, S300, K+N, a fair amount of timing and a pretty maxed pump. It basically is the best set up for the power level it's at. If the throttle lever is set to the inside hole and the high idle is removed you should be able to fuel pretty good all the way to 3050 to 3100 rpm's. Both of my pumps are set up that way. Some day I will do the 366, but its not the at the top of the list.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:58 pm

My truck was a dog when i got it i was so disapointed with the power compared to my 99 24v with a programer, exaust and intake and tripple disc conv, and it allready had a 16 housing fuel pin, injectors, and a 366 spring then i realised the throtle was only opening up 3/4, so i adjusted that gave my fuel screw 3 turns bumped the timming 3/16in and holy cow it was a diffrent truck, and also different EGT,s :shock: :shock:
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Postby stock91w350 » Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:44 pm

is a 3200 spring and a 366 the same thing?
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Postby 921stgen » Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:19 pm

Yes stock91d350, they are the same. The 366 is the last three digits in the PN.
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
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