AFC Lever Removal

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AFC Lever Removal

Postby DieselSharker » Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:07 am

So today I fixed the AFC leak on my buddy's truck with no real issues and then in the process of taking my pump top off to fix mine, we stripped the head on the rear allen screw on the engine side of the pump. So it looks like next weekend I will be pulling my pump so I can get a set of vicegrips on the screw to get it out (unless yall have a better idea). I'm losing A LOT of fuel so I'm gonna get it done one way or another. While I have the top off, I thought about taking out my AFC lever since I've been running it without an AFC spring and plugged boost tube holes for about 6 months.

My question is, since I am already leaking from the o-ring on the pin that rides the fuel cone profile, how do I keep it from leaking if I decide to pull the AFC lever? I assume that because that o-ring is missing and I am leaking like a sieve now, it would probably be even worse with the top gutted. How do I stop this?
1991 W250 727, 6" Skyjacker, 37" Dick Cepeks, Gear Vendor O/D, SDX 5x.014s, BHAF, home-made 4" intake, VE tuning & DennyT II pin, GDS 60mm with 16 cm, CoolerTubz 3" crossover
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Postby crewcabxlt » Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:16 am

i bought a parts truck once and the p.o. had plugged the vent tube and boost line so the afc just filled w/ fuel. seemed to work but not a good idea. fix the o-ring- grind a little off the afc lever, grind or buy a cut down fuel cone (pin) and get use of afc back, then tune it for best performance.
78 ford crewcab,90 6bt,120k,pods,hx-35-12,ported parts.pump mods,3rd gen intercooler.dyno @298rwhp,808 tq uncorrected @4800 ft,dyno june 09 w/he-351turbo,364 rwhp-tq?,3 other 1st gens on the farm.
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Postby DieselSharker » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:05 am

Yeah I don't intend on sealing the top of the pump off completely. I already have a DennyT II cone. I don't want to grind the afc lever because if I do I won't be able to get it back. I'd like to pull the lever off and see how it runs and what my mileage is like and be able to put it back in if I don't like it. Everything I have stripped off the pump is replaceable and every piece is sitting in my toolbox so I can replace them if need be.
1991 W250 727, 6" Skyjacker, 37" Dick Cepeks, Gear Vendor O/D, SDX 5x.014s, BHAF, home-made 4" intake, VE tuning & DennyT II pin, GDS 60mm with 16 cm, CoolerTubz 3" crossover
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby crewcabxlt » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:25 am

i only grid a little off lever, 1/8 " os so but it makes a noticble difference.
78 ford crewcab,90 6bt,120k,pods,hx-35-12,ported parts.pump mods,3rd gen intercooler.dyno @298rwhp,808 tq uncorrected @4800 ft,dyno june 09 w/he-351turbo,364 rwhp-tq?,3 other 1st gens on the farm.
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Postby oldcool90 » Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:40 pm

If you take the afc foot out you can put the stock fuel cone back in to aliveiate the leak at the the fuel pin.When you have the pump apart just put a new o-ring on the pin and the stock cone back in and that will take care of your leak. With the afc foot out it will be full fuel all the time and the fuel cone will have nothing to do with your fuel rate it will just keep your pin from coming out and starting a leak.
1992 reg cab W-350 5sp 12cm ex housing,pod's,3200rpm gov,and piston lift pump
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Postby PToombs » Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:55 pm

For the screw, is there enough room to get one of those easy-out sockets on it? I know most of them are impact type, and have a heavy wall. I also know they make a bit set like that, for smaller screws.
pete

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Postby DieselSharker » Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:23 pm

Yeah Pete, the problem is the approach angle. The screw is pretty much underneath the AFC head and the clearance between the AFC and the block is about an inch and a half, 2" at most. So to get an allen key on the screw you have to get under the AFC housing. We got my buddy's '89 done because he managed to get a good bite with the short end of the allen key. The only angle I could get the short end on mine was right next to the throttle bracket so I couldn't turn it enough to break the screw. When I tried using a ball-end allen key it rounded out the hole. We tried pounding a bigger hex key and a screwdriver in there with my 2.5 lb sledge but neither worked. The BFH failed me.
1991 W250 727, 6" Skyjacker, 37" Dick Cepeks, Gear Vendor O/D, SDX 5x.014s, BHAF, home-made 4" intake, VE tuning & DennyT II pin, GDS 60mm with 16 cm, CoolerTubz 3" crossover
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:42 pm
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