Need mas TURBO

How to make it go fast

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Postby Chug A Lug » Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:16 pm

sounds good let us know how you like them once you get them in. Sounds like a good set up. Which style guage you putting in?
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Postby PRINCETON_JAKE » Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:32 pm

I got Sunpro gauges, 60psi boost, 2000egt, and transtemp. all for under $150. There a "sport style" or some thing like that, black with red/orange needle, numbers, and back light. Right now there on a tripple crome pannel, i just got the pod last week.
1992 cummins, 2wd, A518, WH1c, 60mm,12cm housing, fuel screws maxxed, fuel pin turned and ground, 3200rpm spring, big Amsoil air filter, 4" stack, timming bumped, piston lift pump, Bosch 190's, 18" Maxxi Hulk rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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Postby DZL_Damon » Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:03 pm

Ya man, you HAVE to monitor that stuff! I like my autometers, z series (black face, black bezel, white letters, red needle). There are some cheaper ones out there, but there are definately more expensive ones. Good middle of the road.

I've been told by MULTIPLE people that a good torque converter will feel like you did all our mods all over again! If you are going on a buget, Hughes makes one that is tighter than stock for $350 or something. If you want some quality and even tighter TC's, Goerend, DTT, and Suncoast have your answer. They are $650-$900

I am personally probably gonna go to stick. When I was on the dyno, the fellah running it showed me how much the TC was holding me back. My power cam up and almost flat lined.
-93 W350,CC, DRW, A518, Pump maxed, DDP3, DennyT, 4" DP, black muffler stack with flapper. HE351cw, CoolerTubz, PS I/C, 4601HP elec. fuel pump, 205k
-89 D250, clean utility bed, TF727, new IP, 76k
-09 VW TDI 2.0L CR, ~45mpg, 20k
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Postby Richie O » Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:08 pm

DZL_Damon wrote:
I am personally probably gonna go to stick. When I was on the dyno, the fellah running it showed me how much the TC was holding me back. My power cam up and almost flat lined.


You going to show me up. :D Someone better outdo me. I have been the highest 1st gen 2 years in a row at there dyno day. Im only at 301 so I should be an easy target.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jan 21, 2010 5:58 pm

Oldcool90 on here swapped his auto and put in a getrag and gained 40 or 50 hp with no other mods. Stock autos are junk, the converter being the worst part.
There's a guy here in Syracuse that builds a nice converter too. I got a lock up one for my 97, it cost me about $600. Anyplace else and it would have been $1200 or more. Lots of racers in the area have his converters. I got the billet ultra low stall, it works great.
Let me know if you want his number.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby lectro_static » Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:08 pm

PToombs wrote:Oldcool90 on here swapped his auto and put in a getrag and gained 40 or 50 hp with no other mods. Stock autos are junk, the converter being the worst part.
There's a guy here in Syracuse that builds a nice converter too. I got a lock up one for my 97, it cost me about $600. Anyplace else and it would have been $1200 or more. Lots of racers in the area have his converters. I got the billet ultra low stall, it works great.
Let me know if you want his number.


Has anyone ever tried the clutched auto? Back many years ago someone made a 727 with a clutch instead of a torque converter. Used them on drag race cars, you would only use the clutch to start, stop or change direction NOT for changing gears. I wonder if that would work for the auto trucks........
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
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Postby Chug A Lug » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:06 pm

A clutched auto sounds pretty sketchy?? ive never heard of anything like that and even if they actually do make it for race cars then it probably isnt made for street driving
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Postby IowaCummins » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:20 pm

i was in wyoming 2 years ago and a buddy of mine was talking about seeing a clutched auto quiet a few years ago. but he was wanting to do one on his 69 nova that was light street mostly track. he is the guy that tries to reinvent the wheel, tho.
1993 Dodge W250 Reg cab. Auto, .010" headgasket, A1 Studs. Just the Lil Ole VE pump Fuelin 7x.014's turnin the Aurora 3000 turbo. 5" Turbo back to Duals. :cbadge:
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Postby Mark Nixon » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:34 pm

Clutch Flite? :shock:
I haven't actually seen one of those things in YEARS!!! :roll:

Actually, it would be very practical behind a Diesel, especially with the clutch parts nowadays.

Mark.
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Postby lectro_static » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:44 pm

Thats what is was/is called a clutch flite. They are still being produced at least it looks like it you can find them here: http://www.wintersperformance.com/catalogs/SideWinder/32.htm


If anyone looks into this more or builds one let us know how it works out. I think this would be great for an auto diesel but ya never know
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:19 pm

Yup, I have heard my dad talk about them. He used to drag in the late 60's.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby unixcowboy » Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:02 pm

And here we are with all these modern 'lockup TC's' ....

IF it's good - it'll stand the test of time...
If it's not it'll end up in a junkyard somewhere.

I learned to drive on a '52 Chrysler New Yorker. When I was 16 my father gave it to me. You used the clutch to go from P to R and to N and to D. Had a stuck exh valve on #2 cyl. Not bad, just enough to give you a hiss, wouldn't close all the way.
I used to give all the kids in high school fits with they're 'hot' '57 chebbys and ferds.....
I knew better than drag race, but I'd blow their doors off on a run from Orlando to Daytona Beach on the just opened I-4...68 miles of beautiful interstate with no fuzz patrolling.
By the 8th or 10th mile the Chrysler would just be hitting it's stride. She'd do over 130 - that's where I chickened out. I know because I made the run one time in 57 min...
The tranny never wimpered through 8 mos of thrashing I gave it. I really wish it had 3 gears instead of 2. In drive it would start in 2nd then go to 3rd. If you tried starting in LO and shifting to 2nd the tranny WOULD complain, sounded like gears trashing or something...
'93 D250 CC 47RH w/goodies HX-40 60/65/17 w/hx50 flange 55 psi CoolerTubZ 6x16's M2 pin, 4"dp->5" pipe->5" Stack, PS IC
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