Changing the IP

[Remps]

I think the ip on the 93 is on its way out. The idle drops over 100 rpm after its fully warm, it surges around 1500 rpm, and the 1600 to 1800 light throttle miss is still there.(the reason I bought the 5x18's in the first place) Mileage is also getting worse, progressively since before I put the injectors in. So I'm gonna put the 184 pump on it that has been sitting in a box for a few years. My question is, what tools do I really need to do the swap? Do I need to buy line wrenches? I have lots of flat wrenches, stubby and regular length, S and U shaped wrenches to get the bottom nut on the IP. What kind(s) of gear puller can be used? I am going to advance a tooth on the pump as well.

[Mark Nixon]

The only real PITA to get to is the top rear pump-to-timing case nut and I usually can get those with long 1/4" drive extensions.
The lower one isn't a picnic, either, but if you remove the power steering combo it goes easier.
It helps to remove ALL of the lines prior to attempting the top rear one.

If you look at the lines, there's really only 1 way to remove them off the injection pump AND you don't have to take them all apart to remove them.
They can be removed as halves of a set, front half, then rear half.
It boils down to look at the easiest way to remove them and it turns out you end up removing the front half first, I believe.

You also DON'T have to remove the tin timing cover to unseat the pump gear, though you do need to if you want to jump a tooth.
I use a Lisle brand harmonic balancer/gear puller, which has a tapered foot on on it, which clears the oil fill hole just perfecty.

Mark.

[Remps]

Thanks Mark, do I need to buy a gasket set as well then, or can I use silicone?

[Mark Nixon]

The only gasket on injection pump is the one that seals the pump to the timing case.
If you are lucky and it doesn't tear, or other wise come apart, you can clean it off with carb cleaner then smear a thin laye of silicone sealer on the case side then put it back together.

There is also a gasket between the timing case and the vacuum pump, but those hardly ever screw up in removal.

Mark.

[collegekid]

The pump guy at the local cummins facility gave me the sizes to build your own gear puller out of a piece of flat stock, and an S-shaped wrench from harbor freight is perfect for getting to the back bolt on the IP....I can get the puller size tomorrow when Im at the shop if you'd like

[Remps]

That would be great, thanks!

[collegekid]

ok, so you gave me a reason to run back up to the shop and check it out, the removal tool is as follows:

2 3/8" L x 1" W x 1/2" D there are two holes that are 1 1/2" center to center and made with a 3/8 drill bit

The two hex headed bolts are 1 1/2" L and I don't have any way of getting the thread pitch or size, IIRC 2.8 x 1.20mm (maybe)

I also have the full instructions for removing if interested, I believe there is a video on youtube of how to do it

[Remps]

Looks like it would work with the timing cover on or off?

[collegekid]

I had mine off to do the KDP, but measure the opening after you take the oil fill tube off, and see if it'll work that way